Lesson Learned

Among other things,
long term travel is meant to teach, right?

I can’t help but believe that I’m meant to learn on this journey, all be it At A Puttering Pace, knowledge is the expected outcome. The city of Mérida has done an excellent job teaching me a little something about appreciation.

I spent 15 days in Mérida and complained for 13 of them. Now that I’m gone, I miss her. Scrolling through my photos and reflecting on my visit, I consider how much better things could have been if I’d have appreciated more instead of complaining about what was missing. Now,
I’ll attempt to pay tribute to an exceptional teacher.

Walking History 

Having had good luck with the free walking tour in San Cristobal, I chose to begin things on in Mérida the same way. While there were no brownies or tasty samples, the tour did a great job detailing Yucatan’s past, which shapes the Mérida we see today.

 

In the late 18oo’s and early 1900’s, Mérida was full of millionaires due to Yucatan’s prosperous henequén. Derived from the native Agave, henequén, used to make rope and twine, resulted in substantial wealth for the state. Since the rich needed a place to live, they built elaborate colonial homes in Mérida, many of which still line the streets in various states of disrepair and renovation. Most notable and my personal favorite, is Paseo de Montejo street. Here you can see both, the restored mansion turned museum, bank or insurance company sitting next door to abandoned, decaying reminders of past glory.

 

 

Chichén Itzá

A World Wonder

As with much of Southern Mexico, Mérida grew from the once thriving Mayan city of T’ho. You can brush up on Mayan history and culture at the Mayan World Museum of Mérida and/or witness the ancient ruins up close with a day trip to Chichén Itzá, one of the seven wonders of the world.

A guided day trip to Chichén Itzá includes lunch and a refreshing dip in a stunning cenote or sink hole, the aftermath of collapsed limestone bedrock that exposes the groundwater underneath. According to Wikipedia, there are over 6,000 different cenotes in the Yucatán Peninsula alone.

 

Carved Mayan stones from ancient T’ho were used to build much of the Spanish colonial version of the Mérida you see today. A bitter sweet reminder of Spain’s conquest, indigenous enslavement, pyramid demolition and recycling of the limestone rubble to rebuild the city in the Spanish image. Somber yet captivating, I am grateful for her lessons.

Magic Moments

Maybe it was the best hostel shower ever, that special brownie, discovering falafel, could have been all the hummingbirds, or even the return of the peacock. I can’t quite put my finger on it but, I agree, San Cristobal is the most magical of pueblos mágicos.

 

It started with food. After a very long 14 hour bus ride from Oaxaca, I landed in San Cristobal hangry and tired. I dropped my bags at the hostel and went directly to the closest eatery on the map they provided. Chips & salsa, 4 barbacoa tacos and two beers for $77 pesos. You can’t beat that. 

 

Next, was my decision to do something I wanted to do in Mexico City and Oaxaca but didn’t, the free walking tour. Best decision ever! Our tour guide, Carlos, was very passionate about his city, pointing out all the best food, drink, shopping and street art spots. While this wasn’t a food tour, it could have been. We stopped often to taste local delights like coffee, chapulines (grasshoppers), pox (pronounced posh), camboucha, beer and a few other things I can’t recall. During one stop, I got schooled on what peyote should look like, how to have an authentic ayahuasca experience and an opportunity to acquire a very special brownie 😜. Magic!

 

Discovering falafel was yet another magical experience. Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca had been hit & miss finding good food at reasonable prices. San Cristobal started off great but I followed up those yummy tacos with pricey but average enchiladas. Now it’s Monday, a lot of places are closed and i’m starving. After wandering, I settle on 1 of @3 open places at the end of my patience. A newbie to falafel, I took forever to order, sat down and pouted because I knew it would suck. I took a bite and almost cried. It was so good I bought one to go and ate it the next day. Still wonderful!

 

I spent my final day in San Cristobal exploring the Amber, Jade and Na Bolom Museums and meandering through the maze of side-by-side tents that make up the main shopping area. A magical day of playing photographer, looking at art and shopping for that perfect piece of amber that continues to elude me. I would go back to San Cristobal in a heartbeat. It’s the perfect home base for exploring the state of Chiapas.

Sleeping Around


I never considered staying in a hostel before embarking on my world tour. I always looked for all-inclusive resorts or cheap hotels/motels and never gave it a second thought. When I decided to adventure, I knew my accommodation habits would have to change in service of the greater good, aka my wallet. Yes, change could potentially result in great suffering but that’s the definition of adventure, right? So, I started my new adventure the old fashioned way, simple trial and error. 

La Escondida

Puerto Escondido

I found my very first hostel on booking.com and made my choice based on these 4 factors:

  1. Total Price – $495 mdx (@ $26 usd) for 3 nights
  2. Location – Close to beaches
  3. Picts/Reviews – Pict of bunks w/ privacy curtain
  4. Amenities – Free Breakfast

Living Conditions

  • 8-bed mixed dorm
  • Separate Bathroom – 2 showers & 2 toilets
  • Fully equipped kitchen

My Experience

I did a decent job with my first selection.

Staff was friendly and helpful. I ate a delicious hot breakfast each day. Never waited for the shower or toilet. The free bike was awesome. I had a dedicated place to charge my devices. I found semi-comfortable spots to get work done. I could buy beer and put it in the fridge or buy a cold one at the bar conveniently located upstairs.

On the flip side, that privacy curtain was a mistake. Without air conditioning the room was miserable at night and it felt impossible to breathe with that curtain closed. Having the water randomly turn off everyday also sucked.

Selina

Oaxaca

I also found my second hostel on booking.com and made my choice based on these 4 factors:

  1. Total Price – $625 mdx (@ $33 usd) for 4 nights
  2. Location – Near zocalo and bus station
  3. Air Conditioning – Yes
  4. Amenities – 

    Restaurant/Bar for easy access to food & beer

Living Conditions

  • 16-bed mixed dorm
  • Attached Bathroom – 1 shower & 1 toilet
  • No kitchen

My Experience

I learned a lot here.

Device friendly patio with nice atmosphere. Great place to get work done. Ideal location for exploring the city and finding food. Big lockers for stuff storage.

On the flip side, the room sucked. A 16-bed dorm with a single bathroom might work if the shower and toilet are separated into stalls but otherwise it sucks for everyone. Blasting the AC was unnecessary since Oaxaca isn’t that hot, especially at night. The bar was too loud and crowded for me.

Posada del Abuelito

San Cristobal

I found my third and most favorite hostel on hostelworld.com and made my choice based on these 4 factors:

  1. Total Price – $602 mdx (@ $32 usd) for 4 nights
  2. Dorm Size – New rule, must be 8-beds or less
  3. Location – Near zocalo and bus station
  4. Picts/Reviews –  Relaxed, not a party place 

Living Conditions

  • 4-bed female dorm
  • Attached Bathroom – 1 shower & 1 toilet
  • Fully equipped kitchen

My Experience

Heaven! Seriously, this place rocked.

Friendly staff. Free bath towel. THE BEST shower ever! Excellent water pressure & temp control. Stuff storage. Hot breakfast. Garden common area with hummingbirds! There’s no bar but you can buy beer on site. Great location. What more can you ask for?

My single inconvenience was not having an outlet on the top bunk.

 

Ok. I think i’ve got the hang of this now.
3-5 nights for $650 mdx or less. Centrally located. No dorms larger than 8-beds. 2 or more showers & toilets for separate bathrooms. Fully equipped kitchens for fridge access. Consider amenities, reviews and pictures. Hope for the best.