León Nicaragua

I’ll Go And Find Out For Myself

After my time in El Salvador I headed South, passing through Honduras and stopping in León, Nicaragua. I gave some thought to exploring Honduras but found that the places I was interested in were on the Caribbean side and would have been better accessed from Belize or Guatemala.

I have to admit, a part of me was hesitant to visit Nicaragua, after all, It doesn’t have the safest reputation, but then again neither did Mexico City and I spent an unforgettable month there and would return in a heartbeat. Besides, I chose travel as a way the satisfy my curiosity and discover for myself whether or not the world is, in fact, the dangerous place I’ve heard so much about, making Nicaragua the perfect place to explore next.

With the exception of some unwanted attention*, I thoroughly enjoyed my time in León. It started with an investigation of the historical city center on foot, one of my favorite methods of transportation, and ended with a leisurely stroll through the city adding to my photo collection of beautiful old churches.

Other than looking for a place to stay, I did very little research prior to my arrival. Instead, I elected to save time and joined the free walking tour, which provided a great overview of the city, some country history and recommendations from our local guide about things to do and how to get around. I also got a brief synopsis of the political situation, which seems to be the primary source of Nicaraguas “dangerous” reputation, as well as the inspiration for local murals and street art.

I am grateful that there were no political protests or signs of civil unrest while I was having a look around. I had the pleasure of visiting museums, churches, the beach and strolling the streets at night in relative peace.

I spent a spectacular day enjoying the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center, a true travel highlight and a must see if you’re ever in town. I got to cool off and watch a stunning sunset at nearby Las Peñitas beach and appreciate the second most popular tourist attraction in León, the striking view from the Parque Central rooftop. I had absolutely no desire to go volcano boarding, which I think is the top touristy thing to do.

I am thrilled my curiosity lead me to León and that I didn’t let my doubt prevent this pleasant pursuit.

*A note


I would be remiss if I did not mention my experience receiving unwanted attention during my time in Nicaragua. A month in Mexico City did an excellent job preparing me for the loss of personal space and being stared at, so by the time I reached Nicaragua I thought I was quite accustomed to both. Somehow though, León stands out for managing to significantly raise the bar on creepy lingering stares, whistles, cat calls and comments (in Spanish of course) I would have to endure in this otherwise lovely town.

El Tunco,
el salvador

Among other things,
travel is meant to teach, right?

I chose to spend time in El Tunco because of it’s proximity to a few other locations I was interested in. Im tempted to call this visit a misstep but I gained some valuable insight during my stay, so i’m guessing it served its true purpose.

I planned to arrive in El Tunco and explore surrounding popular attractions like Santa Ana, San Salvador and Ruta de Las Flores, by booking guided day trips. However, once I arrived, I realize this was not to be. Day trips were incredibly expensive and required a minimum of 2-3 people. I tried to join an existing group, but my attempt was unsuccessful. Great, I booked five nights in a surfers paradise and have no interest in surfing, so now what?

Before I can do anything, I’ll need cash and, as luck would have it, the closest ATM is broken. I get directions to a reliable ATM in nearby La Libertad from a hotel staffer which detail exactly how to get there using local transportation. The thought of taking a chicken bus makes me nervous. It’s outside my comfort zone and therefore something that causes a boost in that familiar mixture of fear and anxiety. Of course my response is to imagine the good-sized nightmarish experience to come. Standing on an old school bus stuffed with animals and sweaty people, because El Tunco is a sweltering furnace, heading to parts unknown because I somehow get on the wrong bus and my terrible Spanish fuels disaster… No need to continue, it always ends in prison or death. Nevertheless, needs must, so I head for the bus stop.

 

Obviously my first chicken bus ride was nothing like I’d imagined. In fact, it was quite pleasant and made me feel genuinely foolish for being scared in the first place.

Since the world didn’t end and I didn’t get lost, I feel a dose of courage and think maybe I can successfully take the one hour bus ride to San Salvador too. At least this way I’d get to visit a place on my list for a fraction of the guided day trip cost.

 

enlightening Strikes

In the end, I did take the bus to San Salvador for a look around and even hopped on another chicken bus for a waterfall hike with people from my hotel. Doing stuff with other people is way easier though, it’s when I’m alone that I tend to make decisions based on how much of that fear & anxiety cocktail bubbles up in my body. Believe it or not, I didn’t even recognize I was doing this until some time after my time in El Tunco. Once clarity dawned, I resolved to be more adventurous once I got to South America.