July 2020 •

Monteverde Costa Rica

Santa Elena

It’s challenging to consistently write about my experiences while steadily on the move. I traveled with my big beautiful journal, a collection of colorful pens and a camera for the purpose of documentation. It’s the job of these tools to record thoughts, emotions and observations in a given moment and they do that job exceptionally well, when used as directed. I bring this up now out of pure frustration. It’s been a formidable task remembering Santa Elena, in part because I neglected my tools. My journal entries are scarce, my photos are inadequate and Im sad about it.

Of this I am certain, I was not alone as I explored. What began with me tagging along on a day trip, transformed into a full blown travel duo as we departed Ometepe, Nicaragua. Our first stop after crossing the overland boarder from Nicaragua into Costa Rica, unscathed and without proof of onward travel, was the city of Santa Elena, located in the mountainous region of Monteverde.

I chose to head inland instead of the beaches of the Pacific because, ultimately, I was aiming toward the Caribbean and overland boarder crossing from Sixaloa, Costa Rica into Panama. I chose Monteverde because I thought it was gonna be an exotic place where you could get up close and personal with giraffes. Yes, it’s a little sad but it’s also 100% true.

The place turns out to be @ 4,600 ft above sea level and is renowned as an ecotourism destination since its home to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve, which also happens to be one of the world’s most visited cloud forests. What do you know, an opportunity to see things from a giraffes point of view. Except, I didn’t actually visit the Monteverde Biological Reserve. I think we picked the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve instead, hoping it would be less crowded, have better visibility and more opportunities to see wildlife.

I’d say traversing the cloud forest suspension bridges by day and traipsing through a private reserve in search of nocturnal critters on a night walk tour was an incredibly exotic adventure, no giraffes needed.

Granada, Nicaragua

When I think back on my time in Granada, I have a habit of listing the missed opportunities. Places I didn’t go and things I didn’t see. Belize is still my #1 do-over Country but Granada tops my list of do over cities. Should I ever return, I’ll definitely add more photos to my collection of beautiful churches, rent a bike or walk down to Lake Nicaragua and go on the Las Isletas Boat Tour.

Once done berating myself about the shoulda coulda wouldas, my thoughts move toward what I actually did during my visit. At this point i’m reminded of the energy sucking heat and my choice to spend so much time mapping nearby food options before leaving the shaded comfort and convenience of hostel WiFi. I purposely waited until late afternoon for the free walking tour and the Iglesia de la Merced bell tower climb, which had both, a remarkable view and a glorious breeze. After the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center in Leon, I was excited to visit the Centro Cultural Museos Convento San Francisco for another relaxing museum day. Museums really are the best way to beat the heat or rain and enjoy some art.

Truth is, the highlight of my visit to Granada was an adventurous journey via local bus to the nearby cities of Managua and Masaya. Even though each stop was relatively short, the experience stands out because it’s not one I would have had on my own. As luck would have it, I was able to tag alongside a fellow traveler with a local connection in Managua, which, by the way, wasn’t even on my list of places to see in Nicaragua.

Turns out, the capital is a bustling city that seemed difficult to navigate if you had several days, let alone a few hours. However, with our gracious guide behind the wheel, it was a pleasant ride to Puerto Salvador Allende where the three of us did our best to polish off a colossal seafood platter, that was apparently intended for two.

With full bellies and the sun still shining, we boarded the bus back to Granada with enough time for a brief stop in Masaya. With no plans, nor any desire on my part, to visit the active Masaya Volcano or Volcano National Park, our stroll through town gave us a glance at the Mercado de las Artesanías and its colonial fortress wall perimeter, a peek inside the 18th-century Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church and a twilight traipse to El Malecón for a view of Laguna de Masaya, priceless!

ometepe

At this part of my trek I was deciding between two places, the beach/yoga town of San Juan del Sur and the volcano/nature island of Ometepe. Still holding on to some bitterness toward volcanos you’d think i’d have chosen San Juan del Sur, but I did not. I opted to visit Ometepe for three reasons:

I’d heard so much about its stunning beauty and nature, I didn’t want to miss this “once-in-a-lifetime” opportunity to see and experience it for myself.
I started getting an impression that San Juan del Sur had more in common with the surfing town of El Tunco than the yogi paradise I was searching for.
I had an opportunity to travel to Ometepe, and perhaps even farther, with someone else. Travel is much less scary when you’re with someone else.

My two days on the island were slightly disappointing. Yes, the island is gorgeous but transportation options are limited so there’s little to see or do when you’re on foot. Also, arriving just before the end of rainy season wasn’t ideal, although I did get some good rainstorm video.

I chose travel as the path to explore my curiosity and courage, both of which played their part in my Ometepe visit. While I didn’t employ the courage required for solo exploration, I still have faith that following my curiosity lead me to the right experience.