Category: Art

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Magnificent Medellín Memories

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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Today is Friday, July 2, 2021 and I am in my sacred space writing my second journal entry for the day. This entry is will not be safely tucked away between the pages of my Dream book and I will not write it by hand with colored ink. This entry will be typed out and shared with anyone who wants to read it. 

I am grateful for the opportunity to amass travel experiences, both good and challenging because there are always moments that stand out, that set themselves apart. The moments I spent in Medellín at the Botanical Garden taking pictures and drawing are gifts that keep on giving. 

 Capturing moments of nature, her creatures and their art are my joy, my happy place. Learning to tell these stories without words is an all new labor of love and I am grateful for this place to post my practice… at a puttering pace.

 

 

The first pic below looks out towards Medellín from Comuna 13, once considered among the most dangerous neighborhoods in the world. In the US, it’s been my experience at least, views this stunning are rarely associated with dangerous neighborhoods.

  Things have changed since the most dangerous days of 80’s & 90’s. Now this neighborhood has escalators that connect the hilltop residents to the metropolis below and allow tourists up to see a graffiti / street art paradise. This place gets packed and it’s a challenge to get pics without people obstructing the view, so I am grateful for all I was able to clearly capture.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

For more magical moments of nature, I recommend this Seattle adventure.

To glimpse how I transform my photos into mythical landscapes, check out my galleryand blog at SchooneyGraphics.com 

 

 

The Magic of Her Majesty, Medellín

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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I spent just over three weeks in Medellin, Colombia in 2019-2020. I stayed in three different neighborhoods, went on two “touristy” guided tours and took over 450 photos, yet I still find it tough to pin point exactly what it was about her that so enchanted me. Perhaps that’s Her super power, She can leave an everlasting impression without a need for bells and whistles.    

I arrived on Christmas day 2019. From the airport, I hopped on a low cost bus that got me to the city in about an hour for less than 15,000 pesos/$4 USD. From the mall bus stop, I called an Uber and presto, I was at the first of three hostels. I dropped off my bags and was off to find food.

After my Christmas burger and beer, I boarded another bus and headed to the city center where I was greeted with the most rare of big city travel experiences, deserted streets. That’s Christmas for ya. I was not disappointed then, nor am I now as I scroll through pictures from that day.

 

After a few hours of exploring, it was time to head back to my accomodations. This is when I made my introduction to Metro de Medellin, the mode of transportation that made wandering the city so easy and fun. Once you get this key peice, the city seems to open her arms and welcome you to explore. From the Museum of Modern Art to Comuna 13, everyday was normal and yet new.

I would love to write about the loads of lessons I learned, fears I overcame and the wonderful people I met that made Medellin so magical but those were not her gifts to me. 

 

 

It’s true that I bumped into 4 people that I met in previous countries and I did a few things while feeling my fears incessant warnings but, after some serious consideration, my admiration for my time in the city boils down to, the ease of her flow.

 

Medellin is a big city with a lot to experience and it didn’t seem to take long to acclimate or go with the bustling flow. In hindsight, Mexico City comes the closest to sharing some of the ease of getting around but doesn’t quite match the flow comfort levels.

In addition to her ease and flow, I was attracted to the flora, fauna, art and architecture. My most favorite place to hang out was the Botanical Garden, which happened to be free, and Cerro El Volador Natural Park which offered amazing views of the city and my first Vermillion Flycatcher.

Cartagena, Columbia

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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An introduction to a city from the deck of a boat, a cruise ship or ferry gives me a different perspective than a plane, train or automobile. After all, boats came first did they not? Most times I take my mode of transportation for granted, except for a few occasions when a city slowly grows larger, right before my eyes. Dubrovnik, Santorini and Capri come to mind, as well as Cartagena, Colombia. I can’t help but wonder how many boats, how many people and for how many years have others watched this city grow as they approached?   

From this point of entry, it was easy to zoom in on two places that looked like interesting opportunities to explore; the colonial walled city and the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas or San Felipe de Barajas Castle.

I arrived in Cartagena just before Christmas and what I remember THE most was the extraordinary heat and humidity. While I did my best to take advantage of cooler morning temperatures, the heat sapped both my energy and my patience. In total, I spent a couple hours exploring the walled city and avoiding street merchants but had no patience for the fortress/castle. 

In addition to strolling the walled city, I managed to execute two more enjoyable touristy pursuits. The first was a “self guided” graffiti walking tour of the hip and beautiful Barrio Getsemani. I put “self guided” in quotes because I used a googled map as my guide.

This vibrant neighborhood, with its narrow streets and charming disposition was everything I expected to see in the Oaxaca, Mexico but didn’t. I wandered the area for hours snapping countless pictures of colorful and compelling murals that caught my eye. 

 

 

 

 

 

The next thing I did was something I suspect many Black / African-Americans do when they visit Cartagena, I went on a guided tour of San Basilio de Palenque, the first free slave town in the Americas.   

In a nutshell, Palenque is a village of people descending from West-African slaves that escaped the major slave port city of Cartagena in the late 16th, early 17th century. 

The village was founded by Benkos Bioho, former royalty from the Guinea-Bissau region of West Africa who was seized by a Portuguese slave trader and transported to South America for sale. Bioho organized an escape into the surrounding  mountains with a small group and established Palenque, which became safety for subsequent escapees. 

 

 

The story and history of this village is captivating. From the Palenquero language to the ancestral traditions passed forward through the centuries, Palenque leaves an unequivocal lasting impression.

Some four centuries after the most lucrative business of the time has ended in this region, I gratefully wandered the streets of this former South American slave-trading mecca, privileged to reach her shores via a safe & secure Caribbean Sea adventure. I imagine being carried on the shoulders of those who fought for their freedom and ensured mine in the process and I give thanks. Thank You!

Panama, Perfection & Paradise

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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When I look back on my time in Panama my most favorite things were definitely; 1. the people I met  2. the weaving workshop I attended  3. the lessons I learned and 4. the boat rides – a ferry boat ride to the island of Taboga and a sailboat journey from Panama’s San Blas Islands to Cartagena, Columbia.

The perfection of Panama began at the hostel. I give credit to my travel buddy for this discovery. She found it during the long bus ride from the city of David to Panama City, while I slept soundly. It turned out to be in a chill place in a great location.

We landed in Panama December 2019 and days after arriving, I said good-bye to the woman I’d been traveling with since Nicaragua as she headed back to the UK for Christmas.

The value of staying at a friendly hostel? It tends to increase the likely hood of meeting someone new who’s also looking to explore.

As I’ve mentioned more than a few times, the people I’ve met on my travels have made a pretty big impact on my experience. Most notably by offering suggestions and companionship for excursions I may not have considered as a solo artist. 

My hostel mate, now international friend from Holland, asked if I’d be interested in going to the beach and “voilà,” this is how I came to enjoy a delightful ferry boat ride and all around ideal day wandering a charming colorful town, snapping pictures of flowers, and lounging on the sandy beaches of nearby Taboga island, aka the “Island of Flowers.” 

 

On another adventure with my hostel mate, I discovered a female artist collective in Panama City’s old town, Ninguna Musa, was hosting a workshop on ancestral weaving that seemed perfectly timed for my attendance. 

The bracelet I made and have warn ever since is a lasting reminder of the traditional practice & craft. Because all the materials were included, I’ve even been able to start work on a new piece. A big deal I think, if you consider how precious the real estate in my suitcase and how long I carried the gear around. 

 A special thank you to my fellow attendees who kindly translated for me, I am incredibly grateful!

 

 

There have also been people I’ve met on my journey I’m convinced were placed in my path to teach me lessons for the benefit of future me. One such lesson that dawned while in Panama was the need to more carefully monitor and challenge my self talk. If another person spoke to me using my inner dialogue, would I count them as friend or foe? 

I observed with clarity, not all my inner language was “negative” but there was solid evidence of my tendency to engage in habits that produce undesirable results. I promised myself I’d be less critical in South America.

As luck would have it, I got an early start on challenging my inner critic. The moment I stepped aboard my transportation to Columbia, all my doubts and financial insecurities about the value of sailing The San Blas Islands of Panama vs flying were firmly rejected. My delicate relationship with the open sea & dramamine wouldn’t be enough to make me think twice about catching another sailboat in a heartbeat. So yea, I’m still patting myself on the back for this experience. Good job Me!

 

 

 

 

Costa Rica’s Capital & Caribbean Crown, Cahuita

Posted on by Schalonda

San JosÉ

After Monteverde we headed to San José, Costa Rica’s capital and largest city, as well as the transportation hub for anywhere else in the country you want to visit.

We arrived, hungry, on a Sunday evening when not much around our hostel was open. Our search for food provided an opportunity to explore the neighborhood and that’s when I was taken by a feeling of familiarity, which unexpectedly provided a sense of comfort. Walking the streets of San José felt kinda like home. Im not sure how to explain it other than to say, for the first time in a while, it didn’t feel like I was in a foreign country, it felt like an unfamiliar city in the US.

My pre arrival research listed Costa Rica as the most expensive country in Central America so I really didn’t want to stay long and genuinely hoped I wouldn’t fall in love and want to make it my forever home. San José and I didn’t make a love connection but I had a terrific time on our date which included, among other things: a self guided sightseeing trot around downtown, an info packed guided tour of the famous National Theater, followed by a light bite at the Alma de Cafe, a cruise through the presidential quarter and its street art covered boundary walls, an introduction to brutalist architecture and a taste of Calle 33/Barrio Escalante, San José’s trendy food & drink street/neighborhood.

At first I was disappointed to find so many points of interest closed on Mondays, but it quickly became evident that less was more. Fewer options makes it easier for two people to agree on something. Additionally, i’m grateful for the time I spent outdoors enjoying the architecture, street art and weather. Had I spent the day strolling through museums, I’d likely have missed out on what I enjoyed most about the city.

 

Im compelled to mention the most striking piece of art to catch my eye in the capital city, the Jenaro Valverde Marín Building. Generally it’s churches and colonial architecture that move me to dig out my good camera, but this time it was the Brutalist architecture of Alberto Linner Díaz that held my attention throughout the day. This building continues to light up my imagination with ideas of a concrete dystopian future despite the fact that it was built in 1976. Anything that inspires me to act, to research and find out more, brings me joy and appreciation. Thank you!

 

Cahuita, Costa Rica

Our final Costa Rican stop was Cahuita, a laid back village with an island vibe on the southern Caribbean cost. A tropical paradise with warm water and beautiful black and tan sandy beaches, Cahuita is home to a dazzling sea side jungle and national park. With protected, biodiverse marine and land ecosystems full of indigenous inhabitants, the park has no admission fees and relies exclusively on donations for its maintenance, making it yet another unexpected and budget friendly surprise.

Once in the park, it didn’t take long to spot capuchin and hear howler monkeys. The racoons are not shy at all! I noticed the first one when its wet nose touched my leg and another when I caught it going through my back pack, which I absentmindedly left open, while I took a dip in the Caribbean Sea. Plenty of insects made an appearance as well but my favorites were the spiders and leafcutter ants. Im pretty use to seeing lizards but not skinny green snakes. Finally, with the aid of someone else’s guide, I was able to capture a pic of the illusive, superstar sloth catching some z’s in a tree. 

The Most Magical of the Pueblos Mágicos

Posted on by Schalonda

Magic Moments

Maybe it was the best hostel shower ever, that special brownie, discovering falafel, could have been all the hummingbirds, or even the return of the peacock. I can’t quite put my finger on it but, I agree, San Cristobal is the most magical of pueblos mágicos.

 

It started with food. After a very long 14 hour bus ride from Oaxaca, I landed in San Cristobal hangry and tired. I dropped my bags at the hostel and went directly to the closest eatery on the map they provided. Chips & salsa, 4 barbacoa tacos and two beers for $77 pesos. You can’t beat that. 

 

Next, was my decision to do something I wanted to do in Mexico City and Oaxaca but didn’t, the free walking tour. Best decision ever! Our tour guide, Carlos, was very passionate about his city, pointing out all the best food, drink, shopping and street art spots. While this wasn’t a food tour, it could have been. We stopped often to taste local delights like coffee, chapulines (grasshoppers), pox (pronounced posh), camboucha, beer and a few other things I can’t recall. During one stop, I got schooled on what peyote should look like, how to have an authentic ayahuasca experience and an opportunity to acquire a very special brownie 😜. Magic!

 

Discovering falafel was yet another magical experience. Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca had been hit & miss finding good food at reasonable prices. San Cristobal started off great but I followed up those yummy tacos with pricey but average enchiladas. Now it’s Monday, a lot of places are closed and i’m starving. After wandering, I settle on 1 of @3 open places at the end of my patience. A newbie to falafel, I took forever to order, sat down and pouted because I knew it would suck. I took a bite and almost cried. It was so good I bought one to go and ate it the next day. Still wonderful!

 

I spent my final day in San Cristobal exploring the Amber, Jade and Na Bolom Museums and meandering through the maze of side-by-side tents that make up the main shopping area. A magical day of playing photographer, looking at art and shopping for that perfect piece of amber that continues to elude me. I would go back to San Cristobal in a heartbeat. It’s the perfect home base for exploring the state of Chiapas.

Jade Museum

Moving Through Mexico

Posted on by Schalonda

 

Life
on
the
move:
A New Normal

Getting Uncomfortable

I began this adventure with a month in Mexico City but that’s not really traveling, is it? Staying in one spot is easy and a month is plenty of time to get comfortable. Now I start moving, actually traveling and part of me would rather stay comfortable in this familiar place instead of moving toward the unknown.

an
oppor
tunity
to feel
dis
comfort every
day…
price
less

 

Puerto escondido

8:30 am, Thursday, July 18, 2019
I took an Uber to Mexico City International Airport and boarded a flight to Puerto Escondido. This was the departure city for a tour I missed because I waited too long to book it. I decided to go there anyway, relax on a warm beach for a few days and follow the tour route on my own.

7 am, Thursday, July 18, 2019
I arrive in Puerto Escondido and grossly overpay for a taxi that drops me at my very first hostel by 11:30. Too early for check-in, I shed my suitcase, grab a map from reception then i’m off to check out the neighborhood. Wearing a backpack filled with all my electronic devices, a comfy skort and hiking shoes w/ socks, I head for the closest beach. After descending thousands of steps, I found myself at a packed beach with no place to take off my shoes. In less than 5 minutes, waves rush up and soak my feet. No worries though, it actually feels good having the water cool me off a bit.

Shortly after I find a spot to remove my shoes and enjoy sand between my toes, a wave comes and snatches a shoe while my back is turned. I spot it floating. Mouth wide, I watch for a minute or two before shoving my backpack in the bushes and jumping in after it. I manage to get it back but cut my foot real good in the process. I don’t care that i’m soaked. Puerto Escondido was so hot, I figure i’ll be dry by the time I make it back to hostel. The bloody foot scares me though…

I was pissy about the overwhelming heat, my foot wound and that overpriced cab ride for my first 2 days in PE. On day 3, I decide to let it go and enjoy. I have an awesome bike ride, a great day at the beach, tasty fish tacos and happy hour at the hostel.

My final day, I do my very best to avoid sweating, so I work on my blog until it’s time to catch my bus to Oaxaca.

oaxaca

7 am, Monday, July 22, 2019
The 9 hour ADO bus ride sucks. Even though the seats recline, the bus is cold, winding roads toss you around ALL night and it’s impossible to get comfortable. That being said, you can’t beat the price.

I drop my bag at the hostel after an affordable ten minute cab ride and look for a coffee shop with Wifi thats open at 7:3o am. I get lucky and find one around the block.

7:30 am, Monday, July 22, 2019
I have to say, Oaxaca is beautiful when she sleeps. The empty streets would have made for gorgeous photos but I don’t feel like snapping picts. I decide to appreciate everything I see and keep it as a memory. I consider waking up early for a photo shoot but it never happens.
At the coffee shop I make plans to visit the Monte Albán archaeological site.

With the weather finally on my side, I enjoy perfect temperatures while hiking the archaeological ruins. Patches of clear blue sky and fluffy white clouds make the perfect backdrop for picts of the ancient pyramids.

The hours spent wondering the Archaeological site and exploring the neighborhood take a toll on my wounded foot. Day 2 is a rest, write, research and plan day. Back on both feet, I spend a lot of day 3 at the Culture Museum and catch the Temple of Santo Domingo and the Ethnobotanical Garden as well.

Day 4 is a jam packed day trip with six stops.

  1. Mitla archaeological site
  2. Hierve el Agua petrified waterfalls
  3. Buffet lunch
  4. Mezcal making & tasting at El Rey de Matatlan
  5. Traditional weaving presentation in Teotitlan
  6. Tule, home of 2,000 yr old widest tree ing the world

I spend My final day snapping picts and hunting art galleries before i’m back on the ADO for the 18 hour ride to San Cristobal.

Hasta Luego Mexico City…

Posted on by Schalonda

 

My Last Few stops

I spent most of my final week in Mexico City preparing to head south. However, I did make time to visit Coyoacán, Museo Soumaya and Biblioteca Vasconcelos and was not disappointed.

Coyoacán

Coyoacán is home to Museo Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s house turned museum. I was more interested in the neighborhood than the museum but hung around to snap some pictures of the famous blue house and the long line. Not ready to go home, I continued roaming the neighborhood & main plaza. Known for its authentic cuisine, markets and mezcal, the church of San Juan Bautista and the Watercolor Museum are also worth checking out.

It’s rainy season in Mexico City from May/Jun – Oct/Nov, so I wasn’t surprised when it started raining. After an hour or two of doodling at a coffee shop, I headed for what turned out to be a dazzling discovery. Viveros de Coyoacán is a combination tree nursery and public park. It’s also the closest i’ve come to hiking in the rain since I left California. Misty air, tall trees, and the smell of wet earth was the perfect way to end my visit.

 

Museo Soumaya

My next outing brought me to the Museo Soumaya. Made up of two buildings, Plaza Carso and Plaza Loreto, this place requires all day. The line for Plaza Loreto reminded me of Magic Mountain so I chose Plaza Carso, the pretty building with the short line.

Apparently, Plaza Loreto is 6 levels with the top level housing the largest Rodin exhibit outside of France. I did not know this and spent all my time on level 2, captivated by the “Asia in Ivory” exhibit. I did, however, manage to catch “The Thinker” and “The Gates of Hell” in the lobby.

 

Biblioteca Vasconcelos

Similar to Museo Soumaya, my final adventure in Mexico City was an architectural delight. Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a MUST if you’re into amazingly beautiful things or buildings. This unique library has thousands of books suspended from the ceiling and smoked glass floors allowing you to see feet walking above you. Theres also  garden out back and window seats on the top floors offering unique city views. Another glorious way to spend my day.

 

Week 3 Navigating Mexico City

Posted on by Schalonda

Art In CDMX

Getting to Know the city. 

Exploring inside

THE SIGHTS

My third week in Mexico City was the busiest. Museums, the Zoo, a Zocalo food tour and a trip to the UNAM Central Library.

Museums

You can’t come to Mexico City and skip the Museums, you’re not allowed! There are so many in the city, no matter where you stay, there’s at least one conveniently close.

Modern Art

I forget where I was going but I remember hearing thunder rumbling, so I changed plans and headed to The Museum of Modern Art. Turned out to be an excellent decision. I spent my time enjoying great art instead of getting drenched in a downpour. By the time I got to the outdoor sculpture garden, the heavy rain had turned to a light sprinkle.

Anthropology

The National Museum of Anthropology is a beast! It’s ginormous and packed with exhibits and artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage. Mayan, Aztec, Toltec, Teotihuacan and more. 

What set this museum apart from Chapultepec Castle or the MOMA is simple, English.
Every exhibit has an intro/description in both English and Spanish. Being able to add context to what you’re seeing makes all the difference in the world.

This is a must see if love museums. Set aside a minimum of 4 hours if you want to see everything.

Modern Art

 

Anthropology

 

Food in CDMX

Getting a feel for flavor.

Exploring  outside  

The Zoo

The Chapultepec Zoo is free but the bathrooms cost $5 pesos. I paid $60 pesos to see the insect house & butterfly exhibit.

If you’re exploring the park, check out the free zoo. If you miss it, you’ll be fine.

Metro Universidad

I love the chaotic maze and stuffy heat that is the Mexico City subway, it’s priceless! You just can’t beat the speed, reliability or cost of $5 pesos a ride, which includes all your transfers. It was the long subway ride that got me excited to visit The Central Library at UNAM (National Autonomous University of Mexico). I was so let down when I arrived and the library was closed, most campus entrances & exits too.

Tasty Bites

The most worth while and enlightening experience of my visit to date, has been taking the Tasty Bites food tour.

 

Yes, it was fun sipping on pulque and admiring street art in the historic Zocalo district, but the best part was chatting with our guide and the Australian and German travelers I met on the tour.

Photo Extras

While I was in the Zocalo neighborhood, I snapped a few pics of the Metropolitan Cathedral, Palacio de Bellas Artes and some street art on the famed Calle Regina.

Pulqueria

pulque 

giraffe  

wolf pups 

Churro

Ceviche Tostada

University

Mezcal

Zocalo

My First Week in Mexico City

Posted on by Schalonda

“Ive seen a few of these around the city but none quite as colorful. One thing Mexico City has no shortage of is colorful, artistic eye candy”

Discovering Chapultepec

I arrived in Mexico City the evening of June 19th. I’ve been exploring my neighborhood, primarily by foot, for the last week and I may have already found the brightest gem in the  City.

My first idea was to stay in the Zocolo neighborhood, the historic center of Mexico City, because it sounded like the perfect sight seeing location. But after further research, I opted for something less centrally located. Instead I chose a place close to a big park because I love parks and google maps said this park had museums and a zoo, which I have yet to visit.

Turns out this is not just “A park,” but it’s actually “THE park,” kind of like Central Park to NYC, and locals call it Bosque de Chapultepec or Forrest of Chapultepec.

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