Lesson Learned

Among other things,
long term travel is meant to teach, right?

I can’t help but believe that I’m meant to learn on this journey, all be it At A Puttering Pace, knowledge is the expected outcome. The city of Mérida has done an excellent job teaching me a little something about appreciation.

I spent 15 days in Mérida and complained for 13 of them. Now that I’m gone, I miss her. Scrolling through my photos and reflecting on my visit, I consider how much better things could have been if I’d have appreciated more instead of complaining about what was missing. Now,
I’ll attempt to pay tribute to an exceptional teacher.

Walking History 

Having had good luck with the free walking tour in San Cristobal, I chose to begin things on in Mérida the same way. While there were no brownies or tasty samples, the tour did a great job detailing Yucatan’s past, which shapes the Mérida we see today.

 

In the late 18oo’s and early 1900’s, Mérida was full of millionaires due to Yucatan’s prosperous henequén. Derived from the native Agave, henequén, used to make rope and twine, resulted in substantial wealth for the state. Since the rich needed a place to live, they built elaborate colonial homes in Mérida, many of which still line the streets in various states of disrepair and renovation. Most notable and my personal favorite, is Paseo de Montejo street. Here you can see both, the restored mansion turned museum, bank or insurance company sitting next door to abandoned, decaying reminders of past glory.

 

 

Chichén Itzá

A World Wonder

As with much of Southern Mexico, Mérida grew from the once thriving Mayan city of T’ho. You can brush up on Mayan history and culture at the Mayan World Museum of Mérida and/or witness the ancient ruins up close with a day trip to Chichén Itzá, one of the seven wonders of the world.

A guided day trip to Chichén Itzá includes lunch and a refreshing dip in a stunning cenote or sink hole, the aftermath of collapsed limestone bedrock that exposes the groundwater underneath. According to Wikipedia, there are over 6,000 different cenotes in the Yucatán Peninsula alone.

 

Carved Mayan stones from ancient T’ho were used to build much of the Spanish colonial version of the Mérida you see today. A bitter sweet reminder of Spain’s conquest, indigenous enslavement, pyramid demolition and recycling of the limestone rubble to rebuild the city in the Spanish image. Somber yet captivating, I am grateful for her lessons.

Magic Moments

Maybe it was the best hostel shower ever, that special brownie, discovering falafel, could have been all the hummingbirds, or even the return of the peacock. I can’t quite put my finger on it but, I agree, San Cristobal is the most magical of pueblos mágicos.

 

It started with food. After a very long 14 hour bus ride from Oaxaca, I landed in San Cristobal hangry and tired. I dropped my bags at the hostel and went directly to the closest eatery on the map they provided. Chips & salsa, 4 barbacoa tacos and two beers for $77 pesos. You can’t beat that. 

 

Next, was my decision to do something I wanted to do in Mexico City and Oaxaca but didn’t, the free walking tour. Best decision ever! Our tour guide, Carlos, was very passionate about his city, pointing out all the best food, drink, shopping and street art spots. While this wasn’t a food tour, it could have been. We stopped often to taste local delights like coffee, chapulines (grasshoppers), pox (pronounced posh), camboucha, beer and a few other things I can’t recall. During one stop, I got schooled on what peyote should look like, how to have an authentic ayahuasca experience and an opportunity to acquire a very special brownie 😜. Magic!

 

Discovering falafel was yet another magical experience. Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca had been hit & miss finding good food at reasonable prices. San Cristobal started off great but I followed up those yummy tacos with pricey but average enchiladas. Now it’s Monday, a lot of places are closed and i’m starving. After wandering, I settle on 1 of @3 open places at the end of my patience. A newbie to falafel, I took forever to order, sat down and pouted because I knew it would suck. I took a bite and almost cried. It was so good I bought one to go and ate it the next day. Still wonderful!

 

I spent my final day in San Cristobal exploring the Amber, Jade and Na Bolom Museums and meandering through the maze of side-by-side tents that make up the main shopping area. A magical day of playing photographer, looking at art and shopping for that perfect piece of amber that continues to elude me. I would go back to San Cristobal in a heartbeat. It’s the perfect home base for exploring the state of Chiapas.

Sleeping Around


I never considered staying in a hostel before embarking on my world tour. I always looked for all-inclusive resorts or cheap hotels/motels and never gave it a second thought. When I decided to adventure, I knew my accommodation habits would have to change in service of the greater good, aka my wallet. Yes, change could potentially result in great suffering but that’s the definition of adventure, right? So, I started my new adventure the old fashioned way, simple trial and error. 

La Escondida

Puerto Escondido

I found my very first hostel on booking.com and made my choice based on these 4 factors:

  1. Total Price – $495 mdx (@ $26 usd) for 3 nights
  2. Location – Close to beaches
  3. Picts/Reviews – Pict of bunks w/ privacy curtain
  4. Amenities – Free Breakfast

Living Conditions

  • 8-bed mixed dorm
  • Separate Bathroom – 2 showers & 2 toilets
  • Fully equipped kitchen

My Experience

I did a decent job with my first selection.

Staff was friendly and helpful. I ate a delicious hot breakfast each day. Never waited for the shower or toilet. The free bike was awesome. I had a dedicated place to charge my devices. I found semi-comfortable spots to get work done. I could buy beer and put it in the fridge or buy a cold one at the bar conveniently located upstairs.

On the flip side, that privacy curtain was a mistake. Without air conditioning the room was miserable at night and it felt impossible to breathe with that curtain closed. Having the water randomly turn off everyday also sucked.

Selina

Oaxaca

I also found my second hostel on booking.com and made my choice based on these 4 factors:

  1. Total Price – $625 mdx (@ $33 usd) for 4 nights
  2. Location – Near zocalo and bus station
  3. Air Conditioning – Yes
  4. Amenities – 

    Restaurant/Bar for easy access to food & beer

Living Conditions

  • 16-bed mixed dorm
  • Attached Bathroom – 1 shower & 1 toilet
  • No kitchen

My Experience

I learned a lot here.

Device friendly patio with nice atmosphere. Great place to get work done. Ideal location for exploring the city and finding food. Big lockers for stuff storage.

On the flip side, the room sucked. A 16-bed dorm with a single bathroom might work if the shower and toilet are separated into stalls but otherwise it sucks for everyone. Blasting the AC was unnecessary since Oaxaca isn’t that hot, especially at night. The bar was too loud and crowded for me.

Posada del Abuelito

San Cristobal

I found my third and most favorite hostel on hostelworld.com and made my choice based on these 4 factors:

  1. Total Price – $602 mdx (@ $32 usd) for 4 nights
  2. Dorm Size – New rule, must be 8-beds or less
  3. Location – Near zocalo and bus station
  4. Picts/Reviews –  Relaxed, not a party place 

Living Conditions

  • 4-bed female dorm
  • Attached Bathroom – 1 shower & 1 toilet
  • Fully equipped kitchen

My Experience

Heaven! Seriously, this place rocked.

Friendly staff. Free bath towel. THE BEST shower ever! Excellent water pressure & temp control. Stuff storage. Hot breakfast. Garden common area with hummingbirds! There’s no bar but you can buy beer on site. Great location. What more can you ask for?

My single inconvenience was not having an outlet on the top bunk.

 

Ok. I think i’ve got the hang of this now.
3-5 nights for $650 mdx or less. Centrally located. No dorms larger than 8-beds. 2 or more showers & toilets for separate bathrooms. Fully equipped kitchens for fridge access. Consider amenities, reviews and pictures. Hope for the best.

 

Life
on
the
move:
A New Normal

Getting Uncomfortable

I began this adventure with a month in Mexico City but that’s not really traveling, is it? Staying in one spot is easy and a month is plenty of time to get comfortable. Now I start moving, actually traveling and part of me would rather stay comfortable in this familiar place instead of moving toward the unknown.


an
oppor

tunity
to feel
dis
comfort every
day…
price
less

 

Puerto escondido

8:30 am, Thursday, July 18, 2019
I took an Uber to Mexico City International Airport and boarded a flight to Puerto Escondido. This was the departure city for a tour I missed because I waited too long to book it. I decided to go there anyway, relax on a warm beach for a few days and follow the tour route on my own.

7 am, Thursday, July 18, 2019
I arrive in Puerto Escondido and grossly overpay for a taxi that drops me at my very first hostel by 11:30. Too early for check-in, I shed my suitcase, grab a map from reception then i’m off to check out the neighborhood. Wearing a backpack filled with all my electronic devices, a comfy skort and hiking shoes w/ socks, I head for the closest beach. After descending thousands of steps, I found myself at a packed beach with no place to take off my shoes. In less than 5 minutes, waves rush up and soak my feet. No worries though, it actually feels good having the water cool me off a bit.

Shortly after I find a spot to remove my shoes and enjoy sand between my toes, a wave comes and snatches a shoe while my back is turned. I spot it floating. Mouth wide, I watch for a minute or two before shoving my backpack in the bushes and jumping in after it. I manage to get it back but cut my foot real good in the process. I don’t care that i’m soaked. Puerto Escondido was so hot, I figure i’ll be dry by the time I make it back to hostel. The bloody foot scares me though…

I was pissy about the overwhelming heat, my foot wound and that overpriced cab ride for my first 2 days in PE. On day 3, I decide to let it go and enjoy. I have an awesome bike ride, a great day at the beach, tasty fish tacos and happy hour at the hostel.

My final day, I do my very best to avoid sweating, so I work on my blog until it’s time to catch my bus to Oaxaca.

oaxaca

7 am, Monday, July 22, 2019
The 9 hour ADO bus ride sucks. Even though the seats recline, the bus is cold, winding roads toss you around ALL night and it’s impossible to get comfortable. That being said, you can’t beat the price.

I drop my bag at the hostel after an affordable ten minute cab ride and look for a coffee shop with Wifi thats open at 7:3o am. I get lucky and find one around the block.

7:30 am, Monday, July 22, 2019
I have to say, Oaxaca is beautiful when she sleeps. The empty streets would have made for gorgeous photos but I don’t feel like snapping picts. I decide to appreciate everything I see and keep it as a memory. I consider waking up early for a photo shoot but it never happens.
At the coffee shop I make plans to visit the Monte Albán archaeological site.

With the weather finally on my side, I enjoy perfect temperatures while hiking the archaeological ruins. Patches of clear blue sky and fluffy white clouds make the perfect backdrop for picts of the ancient pyramids.

The hours spent wondering the Archaeological site and exploring the neighborhood take a toll on my wounded foot. Day 2 is a rest, write, research and plan day. Back on both feet, I spend a lot of day 3 at the Culture Museum and catch the Temple of Santo Domingo and the Ethnobotanical Garden as well.

Day 4 is a jam packed day trip with six stops.

  1. Mitla archaeological site
  2. Hierve el Agua petrified waterfalls
  3. Buffet lunch
  4. Mezcal making & tasting at El Rey de Matatlan
  5. Traditional weaving presentation in Teotitlan
  6. Tule, home of 2,000 yr old widest tree ing the world

I spend My final day snapping picts and hunting art galleries before i’m back on the ADO for the 18 hour ride to San Cristobal.

 

My Last Few stops

I spent most of my final week in Mexico City preparing to head south. However, I did make time to visit Coyoacán, Museo Soumaya and Biblioteca Vasconcelos and was not disappointed.

Coyoacán


Coyoacán is home to Museo Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s house turned museum. I was more interested in the neighborhood than the museum but hung around to snap some pictures of the famous blue house and the long line. Not ready to go home, I continued roaming the neighborhood & main plaza. Known for its authentic cuisine, markets and mezcal, the church of San Juan Bautista and the Watercolor Museum are also worth checking out.

It’s rainy season in Mexico City from May/Jun – Oct/Nov, so I wasn’t surprised when it started raining. After an hour or two of doodling at a coffee shop, I headed for what turned out to be a dazzling discovery. Viveros de Coyoacán is a combination tree nursery and public park. It’s also the closest i’ve come to hiking in the rain since I left California. Misty air, tall trees, and the smell of wet earth was the perfect way to end my visit.

 

Museo Soumaya


My next outing brought me to the Museo Soumaya. Made up of two buildings, Plaza Carso and Plaza Loreto, this place requires all day. The line for Plaza Loreto reminded me of Magic Mountain so I chose Plaza Carso, the pretty building with the short line.

Apparently, Plaza Loreto is 6 levels with the top level housing the largest Rodin exhibit outside of France. I did not know this and spent all my time on level 2, captivated by the “Asia in Ivory” exhibit. I did, however, manage to catch “The Thinker” and “The Gates of Hell” in the lobby.

 

Biblioteca Vasconcelos


Similar to Museo Soumaya, my final adventure in Mexico City was an architectural delight. Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a MUST if you’re into amazingly beautiful things or buildings. This unique library has thousands of books suspended from the ceiling and smoked glass floors allowing you to see feet walking above you. Theres also  garden out back and window seats on the top floors offering unique city views. Another glorious way to spend my day.

 


Art In CDMX

Getting to Know the city. 

Exploring inside

THE SIGHTS

My third week in Mexico City was the busiest. Museums, the Zoo, a Zocalo food tour and a trip to the UNAM Central Library.

Museums

You can’t come to Mexico City and skip the Museums, you’re not allowed! There are so many in the city, no matter where you stay, there’s at least one conveniently close.

Modern Art

I forget where I was going but I remember hearing thunder rumbling, so I changed plans and headed to The Museum of Modern Art. Turned out to be an excellent decision. I spent my time enjoying great art instead of getting drenched in a downpour. By the time I got to the outdoor sculpture garden, the heavy rain had turned to a light sprinkle.

Anthropology

The National Museum of Anthropology is a beast! It’s ginormous and packed with exhibits and artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage. Mayan, Aztec, Toltec, Teotihuacan and more. 

What set this museum apart from Chapultepec Castle or the MOMA is simple, English.
Every exhibit has an intro/description in both English and Spanish. Being able to add context to what you’re seeing makes all the difference in the world.

This is a must see if love museums. Set aside a minimum of 4 hours if you want to see everything.

Modern Art

 

Anthropology

 

Food in CDMX

Getting a feel for flavor.

Exploring  outside  

The Zoo

The Chapultepec Zoo is free but the bathrooms cost $5 pesos. I paid $60 pesos to see the insect house & butterfly exhibit.

If you’re exploring the park, check out the free zoo. If you miss it, you’ll be fine.

Metro Universidad

I love the chaotic maze and stuffy heat that is the Mexico City subway, it’s priceless! You just can’t beat the speed, reliability or cost of $5 pesos a ride, which includes all your transfers. It was the long subway ride that got me excited to visit The Central Library at UNAM (National Autonomous University of Mexico). I was so let down when I arrived and the library was closed, most campus entrances & exits too.

Tasty Bites

The most worth while and enlightening experience of my visit to date, has been taking the Tasty Bites food tour.

 

Yes, it was fun sipping on pulque and admiring street art in the historic Zocalo district, but the best part was chatting with our guide and the Australian and German travelers I met on the tour.

Photo Extras

While I was in the Zocalo neighborhood, I snapped a few pics of the Metropolitan Cathedral, Palacio de Bellas Artes and some street art on the famed Calle Regina.

Pulqueria

pulque 

giraffe  

wolf pups 

Zocalo

A Gorgeous
Day Trip

I found myself working more and exploring less during my second week in Mexico City, but I still manage to fit in a lovely day trip to Cuernavaca and Taxco.

 

Cuernavaca

The City of Eternal Spring

Roughly 55 miles south of Mexico City is the city of Cuernavaca. Known for its great weather, rich history and abundance of flowering plants.

My visit here wasn’t long, but plenty of time to enjoy the sun and take in some of the history.

 

Taxco

Pueblo Magico

50 miles southwest of Cuernavaca is the “magic town” of Taxco. A true charmer that should not be missed!

Know for its silver and cobblestone streets, this hilltop village could very easily steel your heart. 

I loved Taxco. The winding narrow cobblestone roads, the views, the shops, the art & architecture. It would have been a joy to stay and explore. Maybe take one of those VW Beetle taxis to a nearby cave or waterfall, visit the old silver mine or just catch a glimpse of the city at night from a rooftop terrace.

If you find yourself in Acapulco or Mexico City, you will not regret a day trip to Taxco. 

“Ive seen a few of these around the city but none quite as colorful. One thing Mexico City has no shortage of is colorful, artistic eye candy”

Discovering Chapultepec

I arrived in Mexico City the evening of June 19th. I’ve been exploring my neighborhood, primarily by foot, for the last week and I may have already found the brightest gem in the  City.

My first idea was to stay in the Zocolo neighborhood, the historic center of Mexico City, because it sounded like the perfect sight seeing location. But after further research, I opted for something less centrally located. Instead I chose a place close to a big park because I love parks and google maps said this park had museums and a zoo, which I have yet to visit.

Turns out this is not just “A park,” but it’s actually “THE park,” kind of like Central Park to NYC, and locals call it Bosque de Chapultepec or Forrest of Chapultepec.

A Detailed list


It’s Tuesday, June 18th, the eve of my departure from the US to Mexico City. After much deliberation, My bags are finally packed for an indefinite journey and this is a list of my chosen “must have” items to start things off with. Anything else will have to be acquired along the road.

TLS Mother Load Rolling Weekender

Inner Suitcase

4 Tank Tops
2 Leggings
2 Skorts
3 Hiking Pants (capris)
2 Shorts
2 Tankini Tops
1 Short Sleeve Top  
2 Sports Bras
9 Underwear
5 Socks 
1 Hanging Toiletry Bag 
1 Scarf
1 Comb
2 Drawstring Ponytails
1 Chord Organizer
1 First Aid Kit
1 Sleeping Bag Liner
1 Pack 14 InkJoy Gel Pens 
2 Packs (16) Avon Skin So Soft Bug Guard Towelettes (10% picaridin)
1 Pack (15) Repel Mosquito Wipes (30% deet)
1 Laundry Bag
2 Microfiber Towels – M & L.

TLS Mother Load Rolling Weekender

Outside Pocket

1 Pair Sandals
1 Box 36 Staedtler Fineliner Pens 
1 Bag Liquid Toiletries
1 Journal
1 Toothbrush.

Pacsafe MetroSafe LS450

25 Liter Pack

1 Travelon Purse 
1 Universal Travel Adaptor
1 Canon PowerShot SX420
1 Mpow Bluetooth Earbuds w/ Carrying Case
2 iPhones 
1 Hiking Shoes
2 Socks
1 Capri Legging
1 Tank Top
1 Microfiber Towel – S
1 Laptop
1 Tablet
1 EasyAcc Portable USB Charger 
1 Toothbrush
1 A5 Soft Cover Sketchbook
1 Set 14 InkJoy Gel Pens – used 
1 CamelBak Stainless Steal Water Bottle – 40 oz. 

 

An introduction

Im almost ready to pack my bags and these are the ones that will get me started on this journey.

 

 

Gonex Extensible Compression Packing Cubes –
$37, Amazon

Organization

This is a 6 piece set with XS, S, M, LG, Slim and a laundry/shoe bag. I’m new to packing cubes so I wanted a variety of sizes. I picked gray because it’s my favorite color and none of the other colors were to my liking.

 

TLS Mother Load Rolling Weekender –
$150, E-bags

Carry-on 

I chose this 22 inch wheeled backpack over the 45L Osprey Sojourn because this one came in a color other than black. As my luck would have it, not only did I get it on sale, I also got 20 airline rewards points for every dollar I spent on my eBags order by using a rewards shopping portal.

 

Pacsafe Metrosafe LS 450 25L –
$119, Amazon

Backpack

I read a in a Facebook group about someone getting their backpack slashed and I became obsessed with getting an anti-theft backpack. I wanted something with room enough for an extra pair of hiking shoes, clothing essentials and my camera, that also came in a color I liked. Comes equipped with a pocket that blocks RFID readers from scanning passport and credit card information.

 

Travelon Anti-Theft Classic Crossbody –
Gift from a friend

Purse 

My favorite kind of purse is a backpack, but they can be cumbersome when you’re out for a quick walk. I thought about getting a small Pacsafe crossbody purse, but decided to find something while on the road. As my luck would have it, I had lunch with a friend who gave me this Travelon crossbody as a happy travels/birthday gift. This one also comes with RFID blocking pocket.