Category: Growth

The Magic of Her Majesty, Medellín

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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I spent just over three weeks in Medellin, Colombia in 2019-2020. I stayed in three different neighborhoods, went on two “touristy” guided tours and took over 450 photos, yet I still find it tough to pin point exactly what it was about her that so enchanted me. Perhaps that’s Her super power, She can leave an everlasting impression without a need for bells and whistles.    

I arrived on Christmas day 2019. From the airport, I hopped on a low cost bus that got me to the city in about an hour for less than 15,000 pesos/$4 USD. From the mall bus stop, I called an Uber and presto, I was at the first of three hostels. I dropped off my bags and was off to find food.

After my Christmas burger and beer, I boarded another bus and headed to the city center where I was greeted with the most rare of big city travel experiences, deserted streets. That’s Christmas for ya. I was not disappointed then, nor am I now as I scroll through pictures from that day.

 

After a few hours of exploring, it was time to head back to my accomodations. This is when I made my introduction to Metro de Medellin, the mode of transportation that made wandering the city so easy and fun. Once you get this key peice, the city seems to open her arms and welcome you to explore. From the Museum of Modern Art to Comuna 13, everyday was normal and yet new.

I would love to write about the loads of lessons I learned, fears I overcame and the wonderful people I met that made Medellin so magical but those were not her gifts to me. 

 

 

It’s true that I bumped into 4 people that I met in previous countries and I did a few things while feeling my fears incessant warnings but, after some serious consideration, my admiration for my time in the city boils down to, the ease of her flow.

 

Medellin is a big city with a lot to experience and it didn’t seem to take long to acclimate or go with the bustling flow. In hindsight, Mexico City comes the closest to sharing some of the ease of getting around but doesn’t quite match the flow comfort levels.

In addition to her ease and flow, I was attracted to the flora, fauna, art and architecture. My most favorite place to hang out was the Botanical Garden, which happened to be free, and Cerro El Volador Natural Park which offered amazing views of the city and my first Vermillion Flycatcher.

Cartagena, Columbia

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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An introduction to a city from the deck of a boat, a cruise ship or ferry gives me a different perspective than a plane, train or automobile. After all, boats came first did they not? Most times I take my mode of transportation for granted, except for a few occasions when a city slowly grows larger, right before my eyes. Dubrovnik, Santorini and Capri come to mind, as well as Cartagena, Colombia. I can’t help but wonder how many boats, how many people and for how many years have others watched this city grow as they approached?   

From this point of entry, it was easy to zoom in on two places that looked like interesting opportunities to explore; the colonial walled city and the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas or San Felipe de Barajas Castle.

I arrived in Cartagena just before Christmas and what I remember THE most was the extraordinary heat and humidity. While I did my best to take advantage of cooler morning temperatures, the heat sapped both my energy and my patience. In total, I spent a couple hours exploring the walled city and avoiding street merchants but had no patience for the fortress/castle. 

In addition to strolling the walled city, I managed to execute two more enjoyable touristy pursuits. The first was a “self guided” graffiti walking tour of the hip and beautiful Barrio Getsemani. I put “self guided” in quotes because I used a googled map as my guide.

This vibrant neighborhood, with its narrow streets and charming disposition was everything I expected to see in the Oaxaca, Mexico but didn’t. I wandered the area for hours snapping countless pictures of colorful and compelling murals that caught my eye. 

 

 

 

 

 

The next thing I did was something I suspect many Black / African-Americans do when they visit Cartagena, I went on a guided tour of San Basilio de Palenque, the first free slave town in the Americas.   

In a nutshell, Palenque is a village of people descending from West-African slaves that escaped the major slave port city of Cartagena in the late 16th, early 17th century. 

The village was founded by Benkos Bioho, former royalty from the Guinea-Bissau region of West Africa who was seized by a Portuguese slave trader and transported to South America for sale. Bioho organized an escape into the surrounding  mountains with a small group and established Palenque, which became safety for subsequent escapees. 

 

 

The story and history of this village is captivating. From the Palenquero language to the ancestral traditions passed forward through the centuries, Palenque leaves an unequivocal lasting impression.

Some four centuries after the most lucrative business of the time has ended in this region, I gratefully wandered the streets of this former South American slave-trading mecca, privileged to reach her shores via a safe & secure Caribbean Sea adventure. I imagine being carried on the shoulders of those who fought for their freedom and ensured mine in the process and I give thanks. Thank You!

Panama, Perfection & Paradise

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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When I look back on my time in Panama my most favorite things were definitely; 1. the people I met  2. the weaving workshop I attended  3. the lessons I learned and 4. the boat rides – a ferry boat ride to the island of Taboga and a sailboat journey from Panama’s San Blas Islands to Cartagena, Columbia.

The perfection of Panama began at the hostel. I give credit to my travel buddy for this discovery. She found it during the long bus ride from the city of David to Panama City, while I slept soundly. It turned out to be in a chill place in a great location.

We landed in Panama December 2019 and days after arriving, I said good-bye to the woman I’d been traveling with since Nicaragua as she headed back to the UK for Christmas.

The value of staying at a friendly hostel? It tends to increase the likely hood of meeting someone new who’s also looking to explore.

As I’ve mentioned more than a few times, the people I’ve met on my travels have made a pretty big impact on my experience. Most notably by offering suggestions and companionship for excursions I may not have considered as a solo artist. 

My hostel mate, now international friend from Holland, asked if I’d be interested in going to the beach and “voilà,” this is how I came to enjoy a delightful ferry boat ride and all around ideal day wandering a charming colorful town, snapping pictures of flowers, and lounging on the sandy beaches of nearby Taboga island, aka the “Island of Flowers.” 

 

On another adventure with my hostel mate, I discovered a female artist collective in Panama City’s old town, Ninguna Musa, was hosting a workshop on ancestral weaving that seemed perfectly timed for my attendance. 

The bracelet I made and have warn ever since is a lasting reminder of the traditional practice & craft. Because all the materials were included, I’ve even been able to start work on a new piece. A big deal I think, if you consider how precious the real estate in my suitcase and how long I carried the gear around. 

 A special thank you to my fellow attendees who kindly translated for me, I am incredibly grateful!

 

 

There have also been people I’ve met on my journey I’m convinced were placed in my path to teach me lessons for the benefit of future me. One such lesson that dawned while in Panama was the need to more carefully monitor and challenge my self talk. If another person spoke to me using my inner dialogue, would I count them as friend or foe? 

I observed with clarity, not all my inner language was “negative” but there was solid evidence of my tendency to engage in habits that produce undesirable results. I promised myself I’d be less critical in South America.

As luck would have it, I got an early start on challenging my inner critic. The moment I stepped aboard my transportation to Columbia, all my doubts and financial insecurities about the value of sailing The San Blas Islands of Panama vs flying were firmly rejected. My delicate relationship with the open sea & dramamine wouldn’t be enough to make me think twice about catching another sailboat in a heartbeat. So yea, I’m still patting myself on the back for this experience. Good job Me!

 

 

 

 

Leisurely Learning in León

Posted on by Schalonda

León Nicaragua

I’ll Go And Find Out For Myself

After my time in El Salvador I headed South, passing through Honduras and stopping in León, Nicaragua. I gave some thought to exploring Honduras but found that the places I was interested in were on the Caribbean side and would have been better accessed from Belize or Guatemala.

I have to admit, a part of me was hesitant to visit Nicaragua, after all, It doesn’t have the safest reputation, but then again neither did Mexico City and I spent an unforgettable month there and would return in a heartbeat. Besides, I chose travel as a way the satisfy my curiosity and discover for myself whether or not the world is, in fact, the dangerous place I’ve heard so much about, making Nicaragua the perfect place to explore next.

With the exception of some unwanted attention*, I thoroughly enjoyed my time in León. It started with an investigation of the historical city center on foot, one of my favorite methods of transportation, and ended with a leisurely stroll through the city adding to my photo collection of beautiful old churches.

Other than looking for a place to stay, I did very little research prior to my arrival. Instead, I elected to save time and joined the free walking tour, which provided a great overview of the city, some country history and recommendations from our local guide about things to do and how to get around. I also got a brief synopsis of the political situation, which seems to be the primary source of Nicaraguas “dangerous” reputation, as well as the inspiration for local murals and street art.

I am grateful that there were no political protests or signs of civil unrest while I was having a look around. I had the pleasure of visiting museums, churches, the beach and strolling the streets at night in relative peace.

I spent a spectacular day enjoying the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center, a true travel highlight and a must see if you’re ever in town. I got to cool off and watch a stunning sunset at nearby Las Peñitas beach and appreciate the second most popular tourist attraction in León, the striking view from the Parque Central rooftop. I had absolutely no desire to go volcano boarding, which I think is the top touristy thing to do.

I am thrilled my curiosity lead me to León and that I didn’t let my doubt prevent this pleasant pursuit.

*A note

I would be remiss if I did not mention my experience receiving unwanted attention during my time in Nicaragua. A month in Mexico City did an excellent job preparing me for the loss of personal space and being stared at, so by the time I reached Nicaragua I thought I was quite accustomed to both. Somehow though, León stands out for managing to significantly raise the bar on creepy lingering stares, whistles, cat calls and comments (in Spanish of course) I would have to endure in this otherwise lovely town.

El Tunco Enlightening

Posted on by Schalonda

El Tunco,
el salvador

Among other things,
travel is meant to teach, right?

I chose to spend time in El Tunco because of it’s proximity to a few other locations I was interested in. Im tempted to call this visit a misstep but I gained some valuable insight during my stay, so i’m guessing it served its true purpose.

I planned to arrive in El Tunco and explore surrounding popular attractions like Santa Ana, San Salvador and Ruta de Las Flores, by booking guided day trips. However, once I arrived, I realize this was not to be. Day trips were incredibly expensive and required a minimum of 2-3 people. I tried to join an existing group, but my attempt was unsuccessful. Great, I booked five nights in a surfers paradise and have no interest in surfing, so now what?

Before I can do anything, I’ll need cash and, as luck would have it, the closest ATM is broken. I get directions to a reliable ATM in nearby La Libertad from a hotel staffer which detail exactly how to get there using local transportation. The thought of taking a chicken bus makes me nervous. It’s outside my comfort zone and therefore something that causes a boost in that familiar mixture of fear and anxiety. Of course my response is to imagine the good-sized nightmarish experience to come. Standing on an old school bus stuffed with animals and sweaty people, because El Tunco is a sweltering furnace, heading to parts unknown because I somehow get on the wrong bus and my terrible Spanish fuels disaster… No need to continue, it always ends in prison or death. Nevertheless, needs must, so I head for the bus stop.

 

Obviously my first chicken bus ride was nothing like I’d imagined. In fact, it was quite pleasant and made me feel genuinely foolish for being scared in the first place.

Since the world didn’t end and I didn’t get lost, I feel a dose of courage and think maybe I can successfully take the one hour bus ride to San Salvador too. At least this way I’d get to visit a place on my list for a fraction of the guided day trip cost.

 

enlightening Strikes

In the end, I did take the bus to San Salvador for a look around and even hopped on another chicken bus for a waterfall hike with people from my hotel. Doing stuff with other people is way easier though, it’s when I’m alone that I tend to make decisions based on how much of that fear & anxiety cocktail bubbles up in my body. Believe it or not, I didn’t even recognize I was doing this until some time after my time in El Tunco. Once clarity dawned, I resolved to be more adventurous once I got to South America.

Another New Beginning

Posted on by Schalonda

Next Stop

After Mexico, I knew my next country would be Belize. Always planning ahead, I discovered I could catch a water taxi in Chetumal that would get me to San Pedro, Belize in 90 minutes for $50. So, after Bacalar I headed South to Chetumal.

Chetumal, Mexico

I was warned a few times that Chetumal was boring, there was nothing to do or see and I wouldn’t miss out if I skipped it altogether. Awesome! That sounded perfect, so I booked a two week stay. I needed a place to rest and relax for a while. 

I wanted to live like a normal person. Spend the day in my pajamas, read in bed, draw, cook, watch Netflix & HBO, stay put and regroup. I found out later this need to stop moving is referred to as travel fatigue and it’s common.

So…, I know I said I was done with hostels but I found this well- priced spot that looked perfect, with great amenities that had two bunk beds and resembled a hostel. I took a chance on it because, according to Airbnb, all 4 beds were available and I was betting I’d have the room to myself for a bit. I Scored! My gamble totally paid off. For all but 4 days I had a big ass air conditioned room & private bath all to myself. Just when I started mentally preparing to get back on the road, my host messaged to let me know I’d be getting a roommate and that’s how I met my first traveling companion.

San Pedro, Belize

Saying good-bye to Chetumal was tougher then you might think. Having a routine and rest was magical, but now I was headed back to a world of constant moving and decision making, not to mention my first boarder crossing. Not gonna lie, I was full of fear and anxiety, frequent companions when I move towards the unknown.

It so happened that I could not have picked a better destination then San Pedro to get back into the swing of things. The water taxi turned out to be an enjoyable ride. A much better option than the bus and, I suspect, a better view. It was a comfort to be back in an English speaking country, most especially upon entry. Boarder crossings are nerve wracking enough without language barriers added to the mix. A shout out to my travel buddy for offering up some calm & relaxed energy. I guess when you jump out of planes for fun a boarder crossing is no cause for alarm. Sometimes it’s the little things that make the biggest difference. 

Similar to Bacalar, San Pedro is quite the charmer. I spent time enjoying the views from the hotel terrace and ocean front cafes. Wandering the narrow streets and shore walk, even with the all seaweed, was the perfect way to ease back into life on the road. 

After my first day I thought about extending my stay or maybe heading to Caye Calker for a look around but I sobered up after day two. San Pedro has great charm but it’s not nearly as budget friendly as Mexico. I love the food, the people, speaking English, the accents, the water sports and I could even tolerate the October heat, what was harder to ignore was my money fears and I couldn’t shake the feeling or belief that my money would go a lot further somewhere else.

Since I would only be in Belize for a few more days, I did my best to put aside money concerns and enjoy myself. Kinda tough when my travel buddy suggested we tour the Great Blue Hole, from a plane. Yikes!! I can still feel my purse strings tighten shut and that’s without the slightest idea of what it might cost. In the end I ignored my fears and did it anyway. With just a little convincing from my buddy, who was really looking forward to it and actually did research to find a competitive price, I jumped on a plane for 20 minutes of photography bliss.

Cherish Each Moment

It so happened that my travel buddy came equipped with an extra GoPro and some generosity, giving me an excellent opportunity to take underwater snaps of my day snorkeling. It’s true, the right people really do show up when you need them the most. I read stories about travelers meeting and traveling together along the way, but I doubted that would happen for me because making friends is not really my specialty. Turns out I was wrong. I now know the awesomeness of traveling with a fellow wanderer and enjoying experiences I wouldn’t have had as a solo artist. This is where I begin to understand the true value hostels. #SanPedroBelize

A Fresh Wound

Posted on by Schalonda

October 19, 2019
Antigua, Guatemala

Today marks the 4-month anniversary of my departure from the U.S. and the beginning of my travel adventures and transformational journey. Seems fitting to write about how I spent my day, especially since it’s still a fresh wound.

I’ve just come from doing the hardest thing I have ever done. Yesterday we left for the popular 2-day Volcano Acatenango hike. This hike takes you up the 3rd highest peak in Guatemala, an elevation increase of about 1.2 meters/3,900 feet, were you camp at almost 4,000 meters, approximately 13,000 feet, and spend an evening captivated by Volcano Fuego spitting ash & lava all night. Day 2 of this hike has you up and departing camp at 4:30 am for the final 400 meters/quarter mile to summit Acatenango and watch the sunrise over Fuego and the valley below.

 

I did not enjoy this hike. It was so fucking hard, I wanted to quit every step of the way. I did my best to relax, appreciate my surroundings and wipe the pained look off my face but I struggled so hard to move my feet and breath at the same time, it was difficult to remember that hiking is a passion of mine. Until yesterday I believed there was no such thing as a bad hike, now I’m not so sure. Perhaps this hike was meant to teach me something important that I will understand later, when every muscle between my waist and ankles are no longer sore.

I did not summit Acatenago. I was up and moving at 4:30 am with everyone else but I could’t finish. After 15 minutes of battling to breathe, I quit and walked back down to basecamp alone. I watched the sunrise over Fuego feeling like a failure. This hike made me feel inadequate in every way possible. I wasn’t fit enough, I couldn’t carry my own backpack, I couldn’t keep up with my group, I couldn’t even be the person that didn’t care that I was the slowest and to top it off, I was the only quitter, the only one missing from the photo at the top. Right now I do not feel any sense of accomplishment for doing the hike, I feel disappointed by a shitty performance.

 

I want to say that I would never have done the hike had I known what I was in for but those words are useless. I DID hike Acatenago and while i’m still consumed with feelings of not enoughness and inferiority for not reaching the summit, I also had the unbelievable experience of listening to the sounds of a volcano erupting, watching lava and plumes of ash shoot out the top of a mountain, seeing and abundance of stars in the night sky, watching the sunrise at 13,000 feet, doing the hardest hike of my life in perfect weather and enjoying phenomenal views. Maybe in a month or two I’ll be more appreciative about the the way my teacher taught me what I was meant to learn…

Tears in Tulum

Posted on by Schalonda

Clearing Clutter for Clarity

Today is October 5, 2019 and I’m sitting on the lakefront deck at a hotel in Flores, Guatemala. It’s been exactly 1 month since my flight from Havana landed at Cancun International Airport and I made my way to Tulum. I didn’t want to be in Tulum, I wanted to be home, in my bed surrounded by all my stuff but that wasn’t possible. My home and stuff were long gone, so I’d have to settle for a cheap hostel instead.

Landing

In Cuba, I barely lifted a finger. Everything was taken care of and it felt like a much needed vacation. Tulum meant an end to all comfort and the beginning of a long hard road ahead with no relief in sight. I was exhausted the minute my plane landed in Cancun.

day 1

I woke up, climbed down from the top bunk, showered and got food. After breakfast, while I sat in the lobby/common area, I felt them coming. After years of holding back my tears, believing they were useless and didn’t help or solve anything, they did what I trained them to do, they sat unmoving in my throat. Little by little, I coaxed them out with the truth of my situation. I was tired of moving from place to place. Tired of loneliness and decision making. Tired of stinking, sweating, ever shrinking personal space, mosquito bites & useless repellent, hostels, clogged showers and the fucking top bunk. I missed the simpIe comforts of home but I didn’t want to go back to the States. My Hostel was gross and I couldn’t bear to think of a future with more of the same. I let my tears know it was safe to come out, no matter how many people were around to whiteness and finally they came, one by one but not nearly enough.

Making Space

Turns out, tears DO help. They are not useless. They helped me let go of built up frustration, stress and travel fatigue, which felt good. Tired, worn out and not sleeping well, my desire to explore was gone. If my bed had been comfortable I might have stayed in it. Instead, my tears cleared space for an idea that felt perfect. Solutions to all my problems would be found after a good massage.

Exploring Cost

Tears came two or three more times before my massage, including crying myself to sleep and a near meltdown when I got lost looking for the massage spot. After Carlos worked his magic, things began to look and feel better. I enjoyed a full day exploring Tulum by bike and realized that cheap hostels were costing me too much. Energy is required to continue safely on this journey and I need to stay in places that recharge instead of drain me.

Fear of Spending

Here I am again, confronted with one of the most resilient skeletons in my closet. My limiting beliefs about and damaged relationship with money. I believe that money equals safety and the more money I spend, the less safe I am. Vibrating just beneath my surface at all times, my spending alarm BLASTED (see iPhone, old car horn) when I withdrew a large sum of cash for my Cuban Adventure. This action felt scary and unsafe but I knew it was just the beginning of something much bigger and my decision to stop using cheap accommodations was a confirmation there was work ahead.

Attainable Healing

I knew long before it began that this journey would change me and that thought excited me. Now, in the midst of changing, the excitement has dulled with the routine of daily practice. I’ve spent a great deal of time working on my beliefs about myself & money since Tulum and I think my effort it’s paying off, pun intended 😁. This post comes after 5-days of “no alarm” spending in Belize, considered the #2 most expensive country in Central America, with Costa Rica coming in at #1. My spending fears and money beliefs are tied other belief baggage I have about being unworthy and not enough, so there’s much more work to be done, but I’m feeling optimism, like healing is actually attainable. It’s not the first time I’ve tried fixing my relationship with money but this feeling is new, something I was missing both times I read Your Are A Badass At Making Money with my family. 

Resources for You

These books have made a MAJOR contribution to my life and feelings of optimism in the last two months. 

*The Illusion of Money: Why Chasing Money is Stopping You From Receiving It by Kyle Cease
• E-book, LA Public Library

Happy Money: The Japanese Art of Making Peace with Your Money by Ken Honda
• Audio Book, also available as an E-book from LA Public Library

Seth Speaks: The Eternal Validity of The Soul by Jane Roberts
• Audio Book, also available on YouTube

It’s Not Your Money: How to Live Fully From Divine Abundance by Tosha Silver
• E-book, LA Public Library

Outrageous Openness: Letting the Divine Take the Lead by Tosha Silver
• E-book, LA Public Library