Spring in Seattle is an experience I’ve not been “present” for during previous visits but this time I couldn’t help but be enchanted. The flowers, the lush landscapes, the drizzling rain, the smells of damp earth, fresh cut grass, cherry laurel and pine trees forced me to pull out my camera and do my best to capture whatever I could.


This brings me to a Third magical moment, Transportation. 

Not long after my banana muffin mission, my dear brother granted me access to the “clunker” he uses for work. Ordinarily this would be quite a score but I was feeling ambivalent because the car had a manual transmission, which I hadn’t driven since the 90’s and what if it’s not “just like riding a bike?”

 

However, once an offer had been made I was unable to stop the fairy dust. I could feel my plans taking form and I knew they would require that I climb behind the wheel with all my fears in tow and remember what to do.

I’m not ashamed to admit pulling over after the first 3 minutes and going for a walk to seriously consider giving up. “The hills are so steep!” and “What if I get in an accident?” echoing loudly. Suddenly, I found myself in front of a stunning view of the Downtown Seattle skyline and I knew I had to get back in that unfamiliar car and navigate those unfamiliar streets because there were many more magical moments to capture.

 

In truth, I wanted to spend my day outdoors exploring the South Seattle College Arboretum  and if I gave up I’d have to either change my plans or pay for the bus/Uber. If I persisted, I could visit other parks and viewpoints, snapping pictures at my leisure for the next few days. It felt like THE perfect plan, so I got back in the car. I pulled over a few more times but I eventually made it to the SSC Arboretum and the adjacent Seattle Chinese Garden  where I enjoyed capturing hundreds more magical moments on my memory card.

I’ve spent a lot of time playing around with presets and sliders in Adobe Lightroom in a an attempt to transform my mediocre and often blurry photos into a mashup of realistic and mythical, since that’s the best way to describe my Seattle adventure.

 

I may have overdone it, I do that sometimes. I snapped and sifted through approximately 1500 images to accompany two travel stories about Seattle. But what you may not know is the blog is a first stop for some of these images.

To glimpse how I transform my mediocre photos into mythical landscapes, check out my gallery and blog at SchooneyGraphics.com 

 

First Ever
Starbucks >>

<<Near the 
Pier

Space
Needle >>

<< Hotel 
Selfie

Gettin’ My
Hair Did >>

<< Airport
Greetings

We did the list of things, like: a stroll through Pike Place Market, coffee & souvenirs at the very first Starbucks, a shopping experience at the Amazon store where you fill up your cart and walk out. I wonder if this is the future of shopping? Of course we had to visit the Seattle Center and the snap a few picts from atop the world famous Space Needle and we wrapped it all up with a ride on the Ferris Wheel at pier 57.

I have a confession to make, I wasn’t scared standing on the observation deck of the Space Needle but I can’t say the same for that Ferris Wheel. I kept anticipating a sudden drop from a great height and that single thought had me anxious enough to shut my eyes. There was a moment though, when I peeked through my lashes long enough to watch as we slowly came down. 

That sudden stomach-in-your-throat free fall I’d been anticipating, never came. Waah-waah. That’s the moment I felt silly for being scared in the first place. I also get that same anxiety whenever I get on a ski lift and once while I was on solid concrete. I caught a case of the nerves while climbing 650 steps to the top of La Piedra del Peñol, a massive rock in Guatapé, Columbia.

I still wouldn’t say that Im scared of heights but they do challenge me to work on my relationship with fear thats for sure.

Adventuring with my forever friends was short but powerful. It helped me replenish my low supply of love, laughter, friendship and connection. Thanks Ladies!! I can’t wait to do it again somewhere else in the world. Maybe by then I won’t be so chicken to get that tattoo….

San JosÉ


After Monteverde we headed to San José, Costa Rica’s capital and largest city, as well as the transportation hub for anywhere else in the country you want to visit.

We arrived, hungry, on a Sunday evening when not much around our hostel was open. Our search for food provided an opportunity to explore the neighborhood and that’s when I was taken by a feeling of familiarity, which unexpectedly provided a sense of comfort. Walking the streets of San José felt kinda like home. Im not sure how to explain it other than to say, for the first time in a while, it didn’t feel like I was in a foreign country, it felt like an unfamiliar city in the US.

My pre arrival research listed Costa Rica as the most expensive country in Central America so I really didn’t want to stay long and genuinely hoped I wouldn’t fall in love and want to make it my forever home. San José and I didn’t make a love connection but I had a terrific time on our date which included, among other things: a self guided sightseeing trot around downtown, an info packed guided tour of the famous National Theater, followed by a light bite at the Alma de Cafe, a cruise through the presidential quarter and its street art covered boundary walls, an introduction to brutalist architecture and a taste of Calle 33/Barrio Escalante, San José’s trendy food & drink street/neighborhood.

At first I was disappointed to find so many points of interest closed on Mondays, but it quickly became evident that less was more. Fewer options makes it easier for two people to agree on something. Additionally, i’m grateful for the time I spent outdoors enjoying the architecture, street art and weather. Had I spent the day strolling through museums, I’d likely have missed out on what I enjoyed most about the city.

 

Im compelled to mention the most striking piece of art to catch my eye in the capital city, the Jenaro Valverde Marín Building. Generally it’s churches and colonial architecture that move me to dig out my good camera, but this time it was the Brutalist architecture of Alberto Linner Díaz that held my attention throughout the day. This building continues to light up my imagination with ideas of a concrete dystopian future despite the fact that it was built in 1976. Anything that inspires me to act, to research and find out more, brings me joy and appreciation. Thank you!

 

Cahuita, Costa Rica

Our final Costa Rican stop was Cahuita, a laid back village with an island vibe on the southern Caribbean cost. A tropical paradise with warm water and beautiful black and tan sandy beaches, Cahuita is home to a dazzling sea side jungle and national park. With protected, biodiverse marine and land ecosystems full of indigenous inhabitants, the park has no admission fees and relies exclusively on donations for its maintenance, making it yet another unexpected and budget friendly surprise.

Once in the park, it didn’t take long to spot capuchin and hear howler monkeys. The racoons are not shy at all! I noticed the first one when its wet nose touched my leg and another when I caught it going through my back pack, which I absentmindedly left open, while I took a dip in the Caribbean Sea. Plenty of insects made an appearance as well but my favorites were the spiders and leafcutter ants. Im pretty use to seeing lizards but not skinny green snakes. Finally, with the aid of someone else’s guide, I was able to capture a pic of the illusive, superstar sloth catching some z’s in a tree. 

El Tunco,
el salvador

Among other things,
travel is meant to teach, right?

I chose to spend time in El Tunco because of it’s proximity to a few other locations I was interested in. Im tempted to call this visit a misstep but I gained some valuable insight during my stay, so i’m guessing it served its true purpose.

I planned to arrive in El Tunco and explore surrounding popular attractions like Santa Ana, San Salvador and Ruta de Las Flores, by booking guided day trips. However, once I arrived, I realize this was not to be. Day trips were incredibly expensive and required a minimum of 2-3 people. I tried to join an existing group, but my attempt was unsuccessful. Great, I booked five nights in a surfers paradise and have no interest in surfing, so now what?

Before I can do anything, I’ll need cash and, as luck would have it, the closest ATM is broken. I get directions to a reliable ATM in nearby La Libertad from a hotel staffer which detail exactly how to get there using local transportation. The thought of taking a chicken bus makes me nervous. It’s outside my comfort zone and therefore something that causes a boost in that familiar mixture of fear and anxiety. Of course my response is to imagine the good-sized nightmarish experience to come. Standing on an old school bus stuffed with animals and sweaty people, because El Tunco is a sweltering furnace, heading to parts unknown because I somehow get on the wrong bus and my terrible Spanish fuels disaster… No need to continue, it always ends in prison or death. Nevertheless, needs must, so I head for the bus stop.

 

Obviously my first chicken bus ride was nothing like I’d imagined. In fact, it was quite pleasant and made me feel genuinely foolish for being scared in the first place.

Since the world didn’t end and I didn’t get lost, I feel a dose of courage and think maybe I can successfully take the one hour bus ride to San Salvador too. At least this way I’d get to visit a place on my list for a fraction of the guided day trip cost.

 

enlightening Strikes

In the end, I did take the bus to San Salvador for a look around and even hopped on another chicken bus for a waterfall hike with people from my hotel. Doing stuff with other people is way easier though, it’s when I’m alone that I tend to make decisions based on how much of that fear & anxiety cocktail bubbles up in my body. Believe it or not, I didn’t even recognize I was doing this until some time after my time in El Tunco. Once clarity dawned, I resolved to be more adventurous once I got to South America.

My first few days were spent roaming the woods of San Marcos with my new friend and fellow Sumpango kite festival attendee. Together we hiked to the Yoga Forest for an ashtanga yoga class and kirtan song ceremony. A spectacular view of the lake, volcanos and jungle with the sun setting behind them made a flawless backdrop for my yogi dream.

When my friend headed back to Philly, I spent the next few days roving the lake towns on my own. Grabbing a lancha to Panajachel for a day trip, investigating the short trails of the San Marcos nature reserve, up at 5am for an Indian Nose hike to watch the sunrise, followed by some worthy wandering of San Pedros streets to discover the charming Parque Puerta Hermosa.

Between Flores, Antigua and Lake Atitlán, I spent over five weeks in Guatemala. I felt especially comfortable in Antigua so thoughts of putting it behind me to get back on the road were joined by anxiety and fear. However, if I was to see to South America anytime soon, I would need move on. I can’t stay in Guatemala forever so I booked a shuttle for my next stop, El Tunco, El Salvador.

With Mexico behind me i’d have to figure out how to navigate my way through Central America without the ADO bus. I decided the best place to make my future plans would be Antigua, Guatemala so I headed in that direction.

Approximately one hour and 45 minutes from the Belize/ Guatemala boarder is Tikal, the ruin of an ancient city and famous archaeological site in the Guatemalan rainforest. AKA, the perfect place to stop and visit when traveling the great distance from San Pedro, Belize to Antigua, Guatemala. I thought about spending a few days in San Ignacio, Belize since it’s close to the boarder and offers day trips to Tikal, but decided against it. At the time I felt I had already spent too much money in Belize and Guatemala would be much cheaper. Looking back, I wish I had made a different choice and feel that San Ignacio was a missed opportunity.

 

Flores, Guatemala

Tikal

Flores is a small town on Lake Petén Itzá that’s connected to the mainland suburb of Santa Elena by a short causeway. It’s a convenient spot for tourists wanting to visit Tikal National Park since it’s about an hour shuttle ride away. Revisiting my decision to stay away from hostels, I picked a place with a patio and an awesome view of the lake, perfect for sunset watching.

After visiting Tikal, my list of things to do in Flores was complete. I spent most of my time on the patio with my laptop. I managed to leave my patio perch once or twice to explore a bit. I walked around the island taking pictures, searched for sunglasses at the large market in Santa Elena and went for a boat ride across the lake to explore the town of Tayasal. My visit ended with a motorcycle ride to the bus station (glad my suitcase can convert to a backpack) where I boarded the night bus to Guatemala City, followed by a connecting shuttle to Antigua at 6am the next day.

 

Fun fact: I got ripped off Flores but not as bad as that time I paid a whopping 280 pesos for a 50 peso cab ride in Puerto Escondido, Mexico. I don’t remember what I paid for the bus ticket from Flores to Antigua however, I know the price was supposed to include a shuttle from the ticket office to the Flores bus station, a bus from Flores to Guatemala City and a shuttle from Guatemala City to Antigua. Except, there was no shuttle to the Flores bus station, the guy ended up taking me to the station on his motorcycle, and there was no shuttle to Antigua, I had to buy another ticket for the Antigua shuttle. I actually got lucky here, things could have been much worse if I wasn’t able to board the night bus. 

Moral of the story: sometimes being cheap costs more than you bargained for!

Next Stop

After Mexico, I knew my next country would be Belize. Always planning ahead, I discovered I could catch a water taxi in Chetumal that would get me to San Pedro, Belize in 90 minutes for $50. So, after Bacalar I headed South to Chetumal.

Chetumal, Mexico

I was warned a few times that Chetumal was boring, there was nothing to do or see and I wouldn’t miss out if I skipped it altogether. Awesome! That sounded perfect, so I booked a two week stay. I needed a place to rest and relax for a while. 

I wanted to live like a normal person. Spend the day in my pajamas, read in bed, draw, cook, watch Netflix & HBO, stay put and regroup. I found out later this need to stop moving is referred to as travel fatigue and it’s common.

So…, I know I said I was done with hostels but I found this well- priced spot that looked perfect, with great amenities that had two bunk beds and resembled a hostel. I took a chance on it because, according to Airbnb, all 4 beds were available and I was betting I’d have the room to myself for a bit. I Scored! My gamble totally paid off. For all but 4 days I had a big ass air conditioned room & private bath all to myself. Just when I started mentally preparing to get back on the road, my host messaged to let me know I’d be getting a roommate and that’s how I met my first traveling companion.

San Pedro, Belize


Saying good-bye to Chetumal was tougher then you might think. Having a routine and rest was magical, but now I was headed back to a world of constant moving and decision making, not to mention my first boarder crossing. Not gonna lie, I was full of fear and anxiety, frequent companions when I move towards the unknown.

It so happened that I could not have picked a better destination then San Pedro to get back into the swing of things. The water taxi turned out to be an enjoyable ride. A much better option than the bus and, I suspect, a better view. It was a comfort to be back in an English speaking country, most especially upon entry. Boarder crossings are nerve wracking enough without language barriers added to the mix. A shout out to my travel buddy for offering up some calm & relaxed energy. I guess when you jump out of planes for fun a boarder crossing is no cause for alarm. Sometimes it’s the little things that make the biggest difference. 


Similar to Bacalar, San Pedro is quite the charmer. I spent time enjoying the views from the hotel terrace and ocean front cafes. Wandering the narrow streets and shore walk, even with the all seaweed, was the perfect way to ease back into life on the road. 

After my first day I thought about extending my stay or maybe heading to Caye Calker for a look around but I sobered up after day two. San Pedro has great charm but it’s not nearly as budget friendly as Mexico. I love the food, the people, speaking English, the accents, the water sports and I could even tolerate the October heat, what was harder to ignore was my money fears and I couldn’t shake the feeling or belief that my money would go a lot further somewhere else.

Since I would only be in Belize for a few more days, I did my best to put aside money concerns and enjoy myself. Kinda tough when my travel buddy suggested we tour the Great Blue Hole, from a plane. Yikes!! I can still feel my purse strings tighten shut and that’s without the slightest idea of what it might cost. In the end I ignored my fears and did it anyway. With just a little convincing from my buddy, who was really looking forward to it and actually did research to find a competitive price, I jumped on a plane for 20 minutes of photography bliss.

It so happened that my travel buddy came equipped with an extra GoPro and some generosity, giving me an excellent opportunity to take underwater snaps of my day snorkeling. It’s true, the right people really do show up when you need them the most. I read stories about travelers meeting and traveling together along the way, but I doubted that would happen for me because making friends is not really my specialty. Turns out I was wrong. I now know the awesomeness of traveling with a fellow wanderer and enjoying experiences I wouldn’t have had as a solo artist. This is where I begin to understand the true value hostels. #SanPedroBelize

October 19, 2019
Antigua, Guatemala

Today marks the 4-month anniversary of my departure from the U.S. and the beginning of my travel adventures and transformational journey. Seems fitting to write about how I spent my day, especially since it’s still a fresh wound.

I’ve just come from doing the hardest thing I have ever done. Yesterday we left for the popular 2-day Volcano Acatenango hike. This hike takes you up the 3rd highest peak in Guatemala, an elevation increase of about 1.2 meters/3,900 feet, were you camp at almost 4,000 meters, approximately 13,000 feet, and spend an evening captivated by Volcano Fuego spitting ash & lava all night. Day 2 of this hike has you up and departing camp at 4:30 am for the final 400 meters/quarter mile to summit Acatenango and watch the sunrise over Fuego and the valley below.

 

I did not enjoy this hike. It was so fucking hard, I wanted to quit every step of the way. I did my best to relax, appreciate my surroundings and wipe the pained look off my face but I struggled so hard to move my feet and breath at the same time, it was difficult to remember that hiking is a passion of mine. Until yesterday I believed there was no such thing as a bad hike, now I’m not so sure. Perhaps this hike was meant to teach me something important that I will understand later, when every muscle between my waist and ankles are no longer sore.

I did not summit Acatenago. I was up and moving at 4:30 am with everyone else but I could’t finish. After 15 minutes of battling to breathe, I quit and walked back down to basecamp alone. I watched the sunrise over Fuego feeling like a failure. This hike made me feel inadequate in every way possible. I wasn’t fit enough, I couldn’t carry my own backpack, I couldn’t keep up with my group, I couldn’t even be the person that didn’t care that I was the slowest and to top it off, I was the only quitter, the only one missing from the photo at the top. Right now I do not feel any sense of accomplishment for doing the hike, I feel disappointed by a shitty performance.

 

I want to say that I would never have done the hike had I known what I was in for but those words are useless. I DID hike Acatenago and while i’m still consumed with feelings of not enoughness and inferiority for not reaching the summit, I also had the unbelievable experience of listening to the sounds of a volcano erupting, watching lava and plumes of ash shoot out the top of a mountain, seeing and abundance of stars in the night sky, watching the sunrise at 13,000 feet, doing the hardest hike of my life in perfect weather and enjoying phenomenal views. Maybe in a month or two I’ll be more appreciative about the the way my teacher taught me what I was meant to learn…

 

Life
on
the
move:
A New Normal

Getting Uncomfortable

I began this adventure with a month in Mexico City but that’s not really traveling, is it? Staying in one spot is easy and a month is plenty of time to get comfortable. Now I start moving, actually traveling and part of me would rather stay comfortable in this familiar place instead of moving toward the unknown.


an
oppor

tunity
to feel
dis
comfort every
day…
price
less

 

Puerto escondido

8:30 am, Thursday, July 18, 2019
I took an Uber to Mexico City International Airport and boarded a flight to Puerto Escondido. This was the departure city for a tour I missed because I waited too long to book it. I decided to go there anyway, relax on a warm beach for a few days and follow the tour route on my own.

7 am, Thursday, July 18, 2019
I arrive in Puerto Escondido and grossly overpay for a taxi that drops me at my very first hostel by 11:30. Too early for check-in, I shed my suitcase, grab a map from reception then i’m off to check out the neighborhood. Wearing a backpack filled with all my electronic devices, a comfy skort and hiking shoes w/ socks, I head for the closest beach. After descending thousands of steps, I found myself at a packed beach with no place to take off my shoes. In less than 5 minutes, waves rush up and soak my feet. No worries though, it actually feels good having the water cool me off a bit.

Shortly after I find a spot to remove my shoes and enjoy sand between my toes, a wave comes and snatches a shoe while my back is turned. I spot it floating. Mouth wide, I watch for a minute or two before shoving my backpack in the bushes and jumping in after it. I manage to get it back but cut my foot real good in the process. I don’t care that i’m soaked. Puerto Escondido was so hot, I figure i’ll be dry by the time I make it back to hostel. The bloody foot scares me though…

I was pissy about the overwhelming heat, my foot wound and that overpriced cab ride for my first 2 days in PE. On day 3, I decide to let it go and enjoy. I have an awesome bike ride, a great day at the beach, tasty fish tacos and happy hour at the hostel.

My final day, I do my very best to avoid sweating, so I work on my blog until it’s time to catch my bus to Oaxaca.

oaxaca

7 am, Monday, July 22, 2019
The 9 hour ADO bus ride sucks. Even though the seats recline, the bus is cold, winding roads toss you around ALL night and it’s impossible to get comfortable. That being said, you can’t beat the price.

I drop my bag at the hostel after an affordable ten minute cab ride and look for a coffee shop with Wifi thats open at 7:3o am. I get lucky and find one around the block.

7:30 am, Monday, July 22, 2019
I have to say, Oaxaca is beautiful when she sleeps. The empty streets would have made for gorgeous photos but I don’t feel like snapping picts. I decide to appreciate everything I see and keep it as a memory. I consider waking up early for a photo shoot but it never happens.
At the coffee shop I make plans to visit the Monte Albán archaeological site.

With the weather finally on my side, I enjoy perfect temperatures while hiking the archaeological ruins. Patches of clear blue sky and fluffy white clouds make the perfect backdrop for picts of the ancient pyramids.

The hours spent wondering the Archaeological site and exploring the neighborhood take a toll on my wounded foot. Day 2 is a rest, write, research and plan day. Back on both feet, I spend a lot of day 3 at the Culture Museum and catch the Temple of Santo Domingo and the Ethnobotanical Garden as well.

Day 4 is a jam packed day trip with six stops.

  1. Mitla archaeological site
  2. Hierve el Agua petrified waterfalls
  3. Buffet lunch
  4. Mezcal making & tasting at El Rey de Matatlan
  5. Traditional weaving presentation in Teotitlan
  6. Tule, home of 2,000 yr old widest tree ing the world

I spend My final day snapping picts and hunting art galleries before i’m back on the ADO for the 18 hour ride to San Cristobal.

 

My Last Few stops

I spent most of my final week in Mexico City preparing to head south. However, I did make time to visit Coyoacán, Museo Soumaya and Biblioteca Vasconcelos and was not disappointed.

Coyoacán


Coyoacán is home to Museo Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s house turned museum. I was more interested in the neighborhood than the museum but hung around to snap some pictures of the famous blue house and the long line. Not ready to go home, I continued roaming the neighborhood & main plaza. Known for its authentic cuisine, markets and mezcal, the church of San Juan Bautista and the Watercolor Museum are also worth checking out.

It’s rainy season in Mexico City from May/Jun – Oct/Nov, so I wasn’t surprised when it started raining. After an hour or two of doodling at a coffee shop, I headed for what turned out to be a dazzling discovery. Viveros de Coyoacán is a combination tree nursery and public park. It’s also the closest i’ve come to hiking in the rain since I left California. Misty air, tall trees, and the smell of wet earth was the perfect way to end my visit.

 

Museo Soumaya


My next outing brought me to the Museo Soumaya. Made up of two buildings, Plaza Carso and Plaza Loreto, this place requires all day. The line for Plaza Loreto reminded me of Magic Mountain so I chose Plaza Carso, the pretty building with the short line.

Apparently, Plaza Loreto is 6 levels with the top level housing the largest Rodin exhibit outside of France. I did not know this and spent all my time on level 2, captivated by the “Asia in Ivory” exhibit. I did, however, manage to catch “The Thinker” and “The Gates of Hell” in the lobby.

 

Biblioteca Vasconcelos


Similar to Museo Soumaya, my final adventure in Mexico City was an architectural delight. Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a MUST if you’re into amazingly beautiful things or buildings. This unique library has thousands of books suspended from the ceiling and smoked glass floors allowing you to see feet walking above you. Theres also  garden out back and window seats on the top floors offering unique city views. Another glorious way to spend my day.