León Nicaragua

I’ll Go And Find Out For Myself

After my time in El Salvador I headed South, passing through Honduras and stopping in León, Nicaragua. I gave some thought to exploring Honduras but found that the places I was interested in were on the Caribbean side and would have been better accessed from Belize or Guatemala.

I have to admit, a part of me was hesitant to visit Nicaragua, after all, It doesn’t have the safest reputation, but then again neither did Mexico City and I spent an unforgettable month there and would return in a heartbeat. Besides, I chose travel as a way the satisfy my curiosity and discover for myself whether or not the world is, in fact, the dangerous place I’ve heard so much about, making Nicaragua the perfect place to explore next.

With the exception of some unwanted attention*, I thoroughly enjoyed my time in León. It started with an investigation of the historical city center on foot, one of my favorite methods of transportation, and ended with a leisurely stroll through the city adding to my photo collection of beautiful old churches.

Other than looking for a place to stay, I did very little research prior to my arrival. Instead, I elected to save time and joined the free walking tour, which provided a great overview of the city, some country history and recommendations from our local guide about things to do and how to get around. I also got a brief synopsis of the political situation, which seems to be the primary source of Nicaraguas “dangerous” reputation, as well as the inspiration for local murals and street art.

I am grateful that there were no political protests or signs of civil unrest while I was having a look around. I had the pleasure of visiting museums, churches, the beach and strolling the streets at night in relative peace.

I spent a spectacular day enjoying the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center, a true travel highlight and a must see if you’re ever in town. I got to cool off and watch a stunning sunset at nearby Las Peñitas beach and appreciate the second most popular tourist attraction in León, the striking view from the Parque Central rooftop. I had absolutely no desire to go volcano boarding, which I think is the top touristy thing to do.

I am thrilled my curiosity lead me to León and that I didn’t let my doubt prevent this pleasant pursuit.

*A note


I would be remiss if I did not mention my experience receiving unwanted attention during my time in Nicaragua. A month in Mexico City did an excellent job preparing me for the loss of personal space and being stared at, so by the time I reached Nicaragua I thought I was quite accustomed to both. Somehow though, León stands out for managing to significantly raise the bar on creepy lingering stares, whistles, cat calls and comments (in Spanish of course) I would have to endure in this otherwise lovely town.

Magic Moments

Maybe it was the best hostel shower ever, that special brownie, discovering falafel, could have been all the hummingbirds, or even the return of the peacock. I can’t quite put my finger on it but, I agree, San Cristobal is the most magical of pueblos mágicos.

 

It started with food. After a very long 14 hour bus ride from Oaxaca, I landed in San Cristobal hangry and tired. I dropped my bags at the hostel and went directly to the closest eatery on the map they provided. Chips & salsa, 4 barbacoa tacos and two beers for $77 pesos. You can’t beat that. 

 

Next, was my decision to do something I wanted to do in Mexico City and Oaxaca but didn’t, the free walking tour. Best decision ever! Our tour guide, Carlos, was very passionate about his city, pointing out all the best food, drink, shopping and street art spots. While this wasn’t a food tour, it could have been. We stopped often to taste local delights like coffee, chapulines (grasshoppers), pox (pronounced posh), camboucha, beer and a few other things I can’t recall. During one stop, I got schooled on what peyote should look like, how to have an authentic ayahuasca experience and an opportunity to acquire a very special brownie 😜. Magic!

 

Discovering falafel was yet another magical experience. Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca had been hit & miss finding good food at reasonable prices. San Cristobal started off great but I followed up those yummy tacos with pricey but average enchiladas. Now it’s Monday, a lot of places are closed and i’m starving. After wandering, I settle on 1 of @3 open places at the end of my patience. A newbie to falafel, I took forever to order, sat down and pouted because I knew it would suck. I took a bite and almost cried. It was so good I bought one to go and ate it the next day. Still wonderful!

 

I spent my final day in San Cristobal exploring the Amber, Jade and Na Bolom Museums and meandering through the maze of side-by-side tents that make up the main shopping area. A magical day of playing photographer, looking at art and shopping for that perfect piece of amber that continues to elude me. I would go back to San Cristobal in a heartbeat. It’s the perfect home base for exploring the state of Chiapas.