Granada, Nicaragua


When I think back on my time in Granada, I have a habit of listing the missed opportunities. Places I didn’t go and things I didn’t see. Belize is still my #1 do-over Country but Granada tops my list of do over cities. Should I ever return, I’ll definitely add more photos to my collection of beautiful churches, rent a bike or walk down to Lake Nicaragua and go on the Las Isletas Boat Tour.

Once done berating myself about the shoulda coulda wouldas, my thoughts move toward what I actually did during my visit. At this point i’m reminded of the energy sucking heat and my choice to spend so much time mapping nearby food options before leaving the shaded comfort and convenience of hostel WiFi. I purposely waited until late afternoon for the free walking tour and the Iglesia de la Merced bell tower climb, which had both, a remarkable view and a glorious breeze. After the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center in Leon, I was excited to visit the Centro Cultural Museos Convento San Francisco for another relaxing museum day. Museums really are the best way to beat the heat or rain and enjoy some art.

 

Truth is, the highlight of my visit to Granada was an adventurous journey via local bus to the nearby cities of Managua and Masaya. Even though each stop was relatively short, the experience stands out because it’s not one I would have had on my own. As luck would have it, I was able to tag alongside a fellow traveler with a local connection in Managua, which, by the way, wasn’t even on my list of places to see in Nicaragua.

 

Turns out, the capital is a bustling city that seemed difficult to navigate if you had several days, let alone a few hours. However, with our gracious guide behind the wheel, it was a pleasant ride to Puerto Salvador Allende where the three of us did our best to polish off a colossal seafood platter, that was apparently intended for two.

With full bellies and the sun still shining, we boarded the bus back to Granada with enough time for a brief stop in Masaya. With no plans, nor any desire on my part, to visit the active Masaya Volcano or Volcano National Park, our stroll through town gave us a glance at the Mercado de las Artesanías and its colonial fortress wall perimeter, a peek inside the 18th-century Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church and a twilight traipse to El Malecón for a view of Laguna de Masaya, priceless!

ometepe


At this part of my trek I was deciding between two places, the beach/yoga town of San Juan del Sur and the volcano/nature island of Ometepe. Still holding on to some bitterness toward volcanos you’d think i’d have chosen San Juan del Sur, but I did not. I opted to visit Ometepe for three reasons:

  1. I’d heard so much about its stunning beauty and nature, I didn’t want to miss this “once-in-a-lifetime” opportunity to see and experience it for myself.
  2. I started getting an impression that San Juan del Sur had more in common with the surfing town of El Tunco than the yogi paradise I was searching for.
  3. I had an opportunity to travel to Ometepe, and perhaps even farther, with someone else. Travel is much less scary when you’re with someone else.

My two days on the island were slightly disappointing. Yes, the island is gorgeous but transportation options are limited so there’s little to see or do when you’re on foot. Also, arriving just before the end of rainy season wasn’t ideal, although I did get some good rainstorm video.

I chose travel as the path to explore my curiosity and courage, both of which played their part in my Ometepe visit. While I didn’t employ the courage required for solo exploration, I still have faith that following my curiosity lead me to the right experience.

León Nicaragua

I’ll Go And Find Out For Myself

After my time in El Salvador I headed South, passing through Honduras and stopping in León, Nicaragua. I gave some thought to exploring Honduras but found that the places I was interested in were on the Caribbean side and would have been better accessed from Belize or Guatemala.

I have to admit, a part of me was hesitant to visit Nicaragua, after all, It doesn’t have the safest reputation, but then again neither did Mexico City and I spent an unforgettable month there and would return in a heartbeat. Besides, I chose travel as a way the satisfy my curiosity and discover for myself whether or not the world is, in fact, the dangerous place I’ve heard so much about, making Nicaragua the perfect place to explore next.

With the exception of some unwanted attention*, I thoroughly enjoyed my time in León. It started with an investigation of the historical city center on foot, one of my favorite methods of transportation, and ended with a leisurely stroll through the city adding to my photo collection of beautiful old churches.

Other than looking for a place to stay, I did very little research prior to my arrival. Instead, I elected to save time and joined the free walking tour, which provided a great overview of the city, some country history and recommendations from our local guide about things to do and how to get around. I also got a brief synopsis of the political situation, which seems to be the primary source of Nicaraguas “dangerous” reputation, as well as the inspiration for local murals and street art.

I am grateful that there were no political protests or signs of civil unrest while I was having a look around. I had the pleasure of visiting museums, churches, the beach and strolling the streets at night in relative peace.

I spent a spectacular day enjoying the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center, a true travel highlight and a must see if you’re ever in town. I got to cool off and watch a stunning sunset at nearby Las Peñitas beach and appreciate the second most popular tourist attraction in León, the striking view from the Parque Central rooftop. I had absolutely no desire to go volcano boarding, which I think is the top touristy thing to do.

I am thrilled my curiosity lead me to León and that I didn’t let my doubt prevent this pleasant pursuit.

*A note


I would be remiss if I did not mention my experience receiving unwanted attention during my time in Nicaragua. A month in Mexico City did an excellent job preparing me for the loss of personal space and being stared at, so by the time I reached Nicaragua I thought I was quite accustomed to both. Somehow though, León stands out for managing to significantly raise the bar on creepy lingering stares, whistles, cat calls and comments (in Spanish of course) I would have to endure in this otherwise lovely town.

Magic Moments

Maybe it was the best hostel shower ever, that special brownie, discovering falafel, could have been all the hummingbirds, or even the return of the peacock. I can’t quite put my finger on it but, I agree, San Cristobal is the most magical of pueblos mágicos.

 

It started with food. After a very long 14 hour bus ride from Oaxaca, I landed in San Cristobal hangry and tired. I dropped my bags at the hostel and went directly to the closest eatery on the map they provided. Chips & salsa, 4 barbacoa tacos and two beers for $77 pesos. You can’t beat that. 

 

Next, was my decision to do something I wanted to do in Mexico City and Oaxaca but didn’t, the free walking tour. Best decision ever! Our tour guide, Carlos, was very passionate about his city, pointing out all the best food, drink, shopping and street art spots. While this wasn’t a food tour, it could have been. We stopped often to taste local delights like coffee, chapulines (grasshoppers), pox (pronounced posh), camboucha, beer and a few other things I can’t recall. During one stop, I got schooled on what peyote should look like, how to have an authentic ayahuasca experience and an opportunity to acquire a very special brownie 😜. Magic!

 

Discovering falafel was yet another magical experience. Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca had been hit & miss finding good food at reasonable prices. San Cristobal started off great but I followed up those yummy tacos with pricey but average enchiladas. Now it’s Monday, a lot of places are closed and i’m starving. After wandering, I settle on 1 of @3 open places at the end of my patience. A newbie to falafel, I took forever to order, sat down and pouted because I knew it would suck. I took a bite and almost cried. It was so good I bought one to go and ate it the next day. Still wonderful!

 

I spent my final day in San Cristobal exploring the Amber, Jade and Na Bolom Museums and meandering through the maze of side-by-side tents that make up the main shopping area. A magical day of playing photographer, looking at art and shopping for that perfect piece of amber that continues to elude me. I would go back to San Cristobal in a heartbeat. It’s the perfect home base for exploring the state of Chiapas.

 

My Last Few stops

I spent most of my final week in Mexico City preparing to head south. However, I did make time to visit Coyoacán, Museo Soumaya and Biblioteca Vasconcelos and was not disappointed.

Coyoacán


Coyoacán is home to Museo Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s house turned museum. I was more interested in the neighborhood than the museum but hung around to snap some pictures of the famous blue house and the long line. Not ready to go home, I continued roaming the neighborhood & main plaza. Known for its authentic cuisine, markets and mezcal, the church of San Juan Bautista and the Watercolor Museum are also worth checking out.

It’s rainy season in Mexico City from May/Jun – Oct/Nov, so I wasn’t surprised when it started raining. After an hour or two of doodling at a coffee shop, I headed for what turned out to be a dazzling discovery. Viveros de Coyoacán is a combination tree nursery and public park. It’s also the closest i’ve come to hiking in the rain since I left California. Misty air, tall trees, and the smell of wet earth was the perfect way to end my visit.

 

Museo Soumaya


My next outing brought me to the Museo Soumaya. Made up of two buildings, Plaza Carso and Plaza Loreto, this place requires all day. The line for Plaza Loreto reminded me of Magic Mountain so I chose Plaza Carso, the pretty building with the short line.

Apparently, Plaza Loreto is 6 levels with the top level housing the largest Rodin exhibit outside of France. I did not know this and spent all my time on level 2, captivated by the “Asia in Ivory” exhibit. I did, however, manage to catch “The Thinker” and “The Gates of Hell” in the lobby.

 

Biblioteca Vasconcelos


Similar to Museo Soumaya, my final adventure in Mexico City was an architectural delight. Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a MUST if you’re into amazingly beautiful things or buildings. This unique library has thousands of books suspended from the ceiling and smoked glass floors allowing you to see feet walking above you. Theres also  garden out back and window seats on the top floors offering unique city views. Another glorious way to spend my day.