Granada, Nicaragua


When I think back on my time in Granada, I have a habit of listing the missed opportunities. Places I didn’t go and things I didn’t see. Belize is still my #1 do-over Country but Granada tops my list of do over cities. Should I ever return, I’ll definitely add more photos to my collection of beautiful churches, rent a bike or walk down to Lake Nicaragua and go on the Las Isletas Boat Tour.

Once done berating myself about the shoulda coulda wouldas, my thoughts move toward what I actually did during my visit. At this point i’m reminded of the energy sucking heat and my choice to spend so much time mapping nearby food options before leaving the shaded comfort and convenience of hostel WiFi. I purposely waited until late afternoon for the free walking tour and the Iglesia de la Merced bell tower climb, which had both, a remarkable view and a glorious breeze. After the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center in Leon, I was excited to visit the Centro Cultural Museos Convento San Francisco for another relaxing museum day. Museums really are the best way to beat the heat or rain and enjoy some art.

 

Truth is, the highlight of my visit to Granada was an adventurous journey via local bus to the nearby cities of Managua and Masaya. Even though each stop was relatively short, the experience stands out because it’s not one I would have had on my own. As luck would have it, I was able to tag alongside a fellow traveler with a local connection in Managua, which, by the way, wasn’t even on my list of places to see in Nicaragua.

 

Turns out, the capital is a bustling city that seemed difficult to navigate if you had several days, let alone a few hours. However, with our gracious guide behind the wheel, it was a pleasant ride to Puerto Salvador Allende where the three of us did our best to polish off a colossal seafood platter, that was apparently intended for two.

With full bellies and the sun still shining, we boarded the bus back to Granada with enough time for a brief stop in Masaya. With no plans, nor any desire on my part, to visit the active Masaya Volcano or Volcano National Park, our stroll through town gave us a glance at the Mercado de las Artesanías and its colonial fortress wall perimeter, a peek inside the 18th-century Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church and a twilight traipse to El Malecón for a view of Laguna de Masaya, priceless!

ometepe


At this part of my trek I was deciding between two places, the beach/yoga town of San Juan del Sur and the volcano/nature island of Ometepe. Still holding on to some bitterness toward volcanos you’d think i’d have chosen San Juan del Sur, but I did not. I opted to visit Ometepe for three reasons:

  1. I’d heard so much about its stunning beauty and nature, I didn’t want to miss this “once-in-a-lifetime” opportunity to see and experience it for myself.
  2. I started getting an impression that San Juan del Sur had more in common with the surfing town of El Tunco than the yogi paradise I was searching for.
  3. I had an opportunity to travel to Ometepe, and perhaps even farther, with someone else. Travel is much less scary when you’re with someone else.

My two days on the island were slightly disappointing. Yes, the island is gorgeous but transportation options are limited so there’s little to see or do when you’re on foot. Also, arriving just before the end of rainy season wasn’t ideal, although I did get some good rainstorm video.

I chose travel as the path to explore my curiosity and courage, both of which played their part in my Ometepe visit. While I didn’t employ the courage required for solo exploration, I still have faith that following my curiosity lead me to the right experience.

León Nicaragua

I’ll Go And Find Out For Myself

After my time in El Salvador I headed South, passing through Honduras and stopping in León, Nicaragua. I gave some thought to exploring Honduras but found that the places I was interested in were on the Caribbean side and would have been better accessed from Belize or Guatemala.

I have to admit, a part of me was hesitant to visit Nicaragua, after all, It doesn’t have the safest reputation, but then again neither did Mexico City and I spent an unforgettable month there and would return in a heartbeat. Besides, I chose travel as a way the satisfy my curiosity and discover for myself whether or not the world is, in fact, the dangerous place I’ve heard so much about, making Nicaragua the perfect place to explore next.

With the exception of some unwanted attention*, I thoroughly enjoyed my time in León. It started with an investigation of the historical city center on foot, one of my favorite methods of transportation, and ended with a leisurely stroll through the city adding to my photo collection of beautiful old churches.

Other than looking for a place to stay, I did very little research prior to my arrival. Instead, I elected to save time and joined the free walking tour, which provided a great overview of the city, some country history and recommendations from our local guide about things to do and how to get around. I also got a brief synopsis of the political situation, which seems to be the primary source of Nicaraguas “dangerous” reputation, as well as the inspiration for local murals and street art.

I am grateful that there were no political protests or signs of civil unrest while I was having a look around. I had the pleasure of visiting museums, churches, the beach and strolling the streets at night in relative peace.

I spent a spectacular day enjoying the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center, a true travel highlight and a must see if you’re ever in town. I got to cool off and watch a stunning sunset at nearby Las Peñitas beach and appreciate the second most popular tourist attraction in León, the striking view from the Parque Central rooftop. I had absolutely no desire to go volcano boarding, which I think is the top touristy thing to do.

I am thrilled my curiosity lead me to León and that I didn’t let my doubt prevent this pleasant pursuit.

*A note


I would be remiss if I did not mention my experience receiving unwanted attention during my time in Nicaragua. A month in Mexico City did an excellent job preparing me for the loss of personal space and being stared at, so by the time I reached Nicaragua I thought I was quite accustomed to both. Somehow though, León stands out for managing to significantly raise the bar on creepy lingering stares, whistles, cat calls and comments (in Spanish of course) I would have to endure in this otherwise lovely town.

October 19, 2019
Antigua, Guatemala

Today marks the 4-month anniversary of my departure from the U.S. and the beginning of my travel adventures and transformational journey. Seems fitting to write about how I spent my day, especially since it’s still a fresh wound.

I’ve just come from doing the hardest thing I have ever done. Yesterday we left for the popular 2-day Volcano Acatenango hike. This hike takes you up the 3rd highest peak in Guatemala, an elevation increase of about 1.2 meters/3,900 feet, were you camp at almost 4,000 meters, approximately 13,000 feet, and spend an evening captivated by Volcano Fuego spitting ash & lava all night. Day 2 of this hike has you up and departing camp at 4:30 am for the final 400 meters/quarter mile to summit Acatenango and watch the sunrise over Fuego and the valley below.

 

I did not enjoy this hike. It was so fucking hard, I wanted to quit every step of the way. I did my best to relax, appreciate my surroundings and wipe the pained look off my face but I struggled so hard to move my feet and breath at the same time, it was difficult to remember that hiking is a passion of mine. Until yesterday I believed there was no such thing as a bad hike, now I’m not so sure. Perhaps this hike was meant to teach me something important that I will understand later, when every muscle between my waist and ankles are no longer sore.

I did not summit Acatenago. I was up and moving at 4:30 am with everyone else but I could’t finish. After 15 minutes of battling to breathe, I quit and walked back down to basecamp alone. I watched the sunrise over Fuego feeling like a failure. This hike made me feel inadequate in every way possible. I wasn’t fit enough, I couldn’t carry my own backpack, I couldn’t keep up with my group, I couldn’t even be the person that didn’t care that I was the slowest and to top it off, I was the only quitter, the only one missing from the photo at the top. Right now I do not feel any sense of accomplishment for doing the hike, I feel disappointed by a shitty performance.

 

I want to say that I would never have done the hike had I known what I was in for but those words are useless. I DID hike Acatenago and while i’m still consumed with feelings of not enoughness and inferiority for not reaching the summit, I also had the unbelievable experience of listening to the sounds of a volcano erupting, watching lava and plumes of ash shoot out the top of a mountain, seeing and abundance of stars in the night sky, watching the sunrise at 13,000 feet, doing the hardest hike of my life in perfect weather and enjoying phenomenal views. Maybe in a month or two I’ll be more appreciative about the the way my teacher taught me what I was meant to learn…