Category: Blog

Storytelling

Magnificent Medellín Memories

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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Today is Friday, July 2, 2021 and I am in my sacred space writing my second journal entry for the day. This entry is will not be safely tucked away between the pages of my Dream book and I will not write it by hand with colored ink. This entry will be typed out and shared with anyone who wants to read it. 

I am grateful for the opportunity to amass travel experiences, both good and challenging because there are always moments that stand out, that set themselves apart. The moments I spent in Medellín at the Botanical Garden taking pictures and drawing are gifts that keep on giving. 

 Capturing moments of nature, her creatures and their art are my joy, my happy place. Learning to tell these stories without words is an all new labor of love and I am grateful for this place to post my practice… at a puttering pace.

 

 

The first pic below looks out towards Medellín from Comuna 13, once considered among the most dangerous neighborhoods in the world. In the US, it’s been my experience at least, views this stunning are rarely associated with dangerous neighborhoods.

  Things have changed since the most dangerous days of 80’s & 90’s. Now this neighborhood has escalators that connect the hilltop residents to the metropolis below and allow tourists up to see a graffiti / street art paradise. This place gets packed and it’s a challenge to get pics without people obstructing the view, so I am grateful for all I was able to clearly capture.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

For more magical moments of nature, I recommend this Seattle adventure.

To glimpse how I transform my photos into mythical landscapes, check out my galleryand blog at SchooneyGraphics.com 

 

 

The Magic of Her Majesty, Medellín

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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I spent just over three weeks in Medellin, Colombia in 2019-2020. I stayed in three different neighborhoods, went on two “touristy” guided tours and took over 450 photos, yet I still find it tough to pin point exactly what it was about her that so enchanted me. Perhaps that’s Her super power, She can leave an everlasting impression without a need for bells and whistles.    

I arrived on Christmas day 2019. From the airport, I hopped on a low cost bus that got me to the city in about an hour for less than 15,000 pesos/$4 USD. From the mall bus stop, I called an Uber and presto, I was at the first of three hostels. I dropped off my bags and was off to find food.

After my Christmas burger and beer, I boarded another bus and headed to the city center where I was greeted with the most rare of big city travel experiences, deserted streets. That’s Christmas for ya. I was not disappointed then, nor am I now as I scroll through pictures from that day.

 

After a few hours of exploring, it was time to head back to my accomodations. This is when I made my introduction to Metro de Medellin, the mode of transportation that made wandering the city so easy and fun. Once you get this key peice, the city seems to open her arms and welcome you to explore. From the Museum of Modern Art to Comuna 13, everyday was normal and yet new.

I would love to write about the loads of lessons I learned, fears I overcame and the wonderful people I met that made Medellin so magical but those were not her gifts to me. 

 

 

It’s true that I bumped into 4 people that I met in previous countries and I did a few things while feeling my fears incessant warnings but, after some serious consideration, my admiration for my time in the city boils down to, the ease of her flow.

 

Medellin is a big city with a lot to experience and it didn’t seem to take long to acclimate or go with the bustling flow. In hindsight, Mexico City comes the closest to sharing some of the ease of getting around but doesn’t quite match the flow comfort levels.

In addition to her ease and flow, I was attracted to the flora, fauna, art and architecture. My most favorite place to hang out was the Botanical Garden, which happened to be free, and Cerro El Volador Natural Park which offered amazing views of the city and my first Vermillion Flycatcher.

Cartagena, Columbia

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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An introduction to a city from the deck of a boat, a cruise ship or ferry gives me a different perspective than a plane, train or automobile. After all, boats came first did they not? Most times I take my mode of transportation for granted, except for a few occasions when a city slowly grows larger, right before my eyes. Dubrovnik, Santorini and Capri come to mind, as well as Cartagena, Colombia. I can’t help but wonder how many boats, how many people and for how many years have others watched this city grow as they approached?   

From this point of entry, it was easy to zoom in on two places that looked like interesting opportunities to explore; the colonial walled city and the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas or San Felipe de Barajas Castle.

I arrived in Cartagena just before Christmas and what I remember THE most was the extraordinary heat and humidity. While I did my best to take advantage of cooler morning temperatures, the heat sapped both my energy and my patience. In total, I spent a couple hours exploring the walled city and avoiding street merchants but had no patience for the fortress/castle. 

In addition to strolling the walled city, I managed to execute two more enjoyable touristy pursuits. The first was a “self guided” graffiti walking tour of the hip and beautiful Barrio Getsemani. I put “self guided” in quotes because I used a googled map as my guide.

This vibrant neighborhood, with its narrow streets and charming disposition was everything I expected to see in the Oaxaca, Mexico but didn’t. I wandered the area for hours snapping countless pictures of colorful and compelling murals that caught my eye. 

 

 

 

 

 

The next thing I did was something I suspect many Black / African-Americans do when they visit Cartagena, I went on a guided tour of San Basilio de Palenque, the first free slave town in the Americas.   

In a nutshell, Palenque is a village of people descending from West-African slaves that escaped the major slave port city of Cartagena in the late 16th, early 17th century. 

The village was founded by Benkos Bioho, former royalty from the Guinea-Bissau region of West Africa who was seized by a Portuguese slave trader and transported to South America for sale. Bioho organized an escape into the surrounding  mountains with a small group and established Palenque, which became safety for subsequent escapees. 

 

 

The story and history of this village is captivating. From the Palenquero language to the ancestral traditions passed forward through the centuries, Palenque leaves an unequivocal lasting impression.

Some four centuries after the most lucrative business of the time has ended in this region, I gratefully wandered the streets of this former South American slave-trading mecca, privileged to reach her shores via a safe & secure Caribbean Sea adventure. I imagine being carried on the shoulders of those who fought for their freedom and ensured mine in the process and I give thanks. Thank You!

Panama, Perfection & Paradise

Posted on by Schalonda

Hind Sight

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When I look back on my time in Panama my most favorite things were definitely; 1. the people I met  2. the weaving workshop I attended  3. the lessons I learned and 4. the boat rides – a ferry boat ride to the island of Taboga and a sailboat journey from Panama’s San Blas Islands to Cartagena, Columbia.

The perfection of Panama began at the hostel. I give credit to my travel buddy for this discovery. She found it during the long bus ride from the city of David to Panama City, while I slept soundly. It turned out to be in a chill place in a great location.

We landed in Panama December 2019 and days after arriving, I said good-bye to the woman I’d been traveling with since Nicaragua as she headed back to the UK for Christmas.

The value of staying at a friendly hostel? It tends to increase the likely hood of meeting someone new who’s also looking to explore.

As I’ve mentioned more than a few times, the people I’ve met on my travels have made a pretty big impact on my experience. Most notably by offering suggestions and companionship for excursions I may not have considered as a solo artist. 

My hostel mate, now international friend from Holland, asked if I’d be interested in going to the beach and “voilà,” this is how I came to enjoy a delightful ferry boat ride and all around ideal day wandering a charming colorful town, snapping pictures of flowers, and lounging on the sandy beaches of nearby Taboga island, aka the “Island of Flowers.” 

 

On another adventure with my hostel mate, I discovered a female artist collective in Panama City’s old town, Ninguna Musa, was hosting a workshop on ancestral weaving that seemed perfectly timed for my attendance. 

The bracelet I made and have warn ever since is a lasting reminder of the traditional practice & craft. Because all the materials were included, I’ve even been able to start work on a new piece. A big deal I think, if you consider how precious the real estate in my suitcase and how long I carried the gear around. 

 A special thank you to my fellow attendees who kindly translated for me, I am incredibly grateful!

 

 

There have also been people I’ve met on my journey I’m convinced were placed in my path to teach me lessons for the benefit of future me. One such lesson that dawned while in Panama was the need to more carefully monitor and challenge my self talk. If another person spoke to me using my inner dialogue, would I count them as friend or foe? 

I observed with clarity, not all my inner language was “negative” but there was solid evidence of my tendency to engage in habits that produce undesirable results. I promised myself I’d be less critical in South America.

As luck would have it, I got an early start on challenging my inner critic. The moment I stepped aboard my transportation to Columbia, all my doubts and financial insecurities about the value of sailing The San Blas Islands of Panama vs flying were firmly rejected. My delicate relationship with the open sea & dramamine wouldn’t be enough to make me think twice about catching another sailboat in a heartbeat. So yea, I’m still patting myself on the back for this experience. Good job Me!

 

 

 

 

More Magical Moments in Seattle

Posted on by Schalonda

Fairy Dusted

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One of many fantastic things about visiting my childhood hometown is family. Both my brothers still call the Emerald City home, which gave me an opportunity to extend my stay for an additional 8 days after my friends left town.

During this part of my trip I began to make connections between many magical moments.

First: My forever friends sprinkled some fairy dust on me when they got me out of the house, up to Seattle and into a receptive state of gratitude and joy.

Second: Trader Joe’s banana chocolate chip muffins! My brother lives mere steps from the best muffins on the planet and it was my eagerness to grab a batch that fired up the fairy dust and lit the spark of inspiration that would fuel the rest of my stay.

Spring in Seattle is an experience I’ve not been “present” for during previous visits but this time I couldn’t help but be enchanted. The flowers, the lush landscapes, the drizzling rain, the smells of damp earth, fresh cut grass, cherry laurel and pine trees forced me to pull out my camera and do my best to capture whatever I could.

This brings me to a Third magical moment, Transportation. 

Not long after my banana muffin mission, my dear brother granted me access to the “clunker” he uses for work. Ordinarily this would be quite a score but I was feeling ambivalent because the car had a manual transmission, which I hadn’t driven since the 90’s and what if it’s not “just like riding a bike?”

 

However, once an offer had been made I was unable to stop the fairy dust. I could feel my plans taking form and I knew they would require that I climb behind the wheel with all my fears in tow and remember what to do.

I’m not ashamed to admit pulling over after the first 3 minutes and going for a walk to seriously consider giving up. “The hills are so steep!” and “What if I get in an accident?” echoing loudly. Suddenly, I found myself in front of a stunning view of the Downtown Seattle skyline and I knew I had to get back in that unfamiliar car and navigate those unfamiliar streets because there were many more magical moments to capture.

 

In truth, I wanted to spend my day outdoors exploring the South Seattle College Arboretum  and if I gave up I’d have to either change my plans or pay for the bus/Uber. If I persisted, I could visit other parks and viewpoints, snapping pictures at my leisure for the next few days. It felt like THE perfect plan, so I got back in the car. I pulled over a few more times but I eventually made it to the SSC Arboretum and the adjacent Seattle Chinese Garden  where I enjoyed capturing hundreds more magical moments on my memory card.

I’ve spent a lot of time playing around with presets and sliders in Adobe Lightroom in a an attempt to transform my mediocre and often blurry photos into a mashup of realistic and mythical, since that’s the best way to describe my Seattle adventure.

 

I may have overdone it, I do that sometimes. I snapped and sifted through approximately 1500 images to accompany two travel stories about Seattle. But what you may not know is the blog is a first stop for some of these images.

To glimpse how I transform my mediocre photos into mythical landscapes, check out my gallery and blog at SchooneyGraphics.com 

 

Costa Rica’s Capital & Caribbean Crown, Cahuita

Posted on by Schalonda

San JosÉ

After Monteverde we headed to San José, Costa Rica’s capital and largest city, as well as the transportation hub for anywhere else in the country you want to visit.

We arrived, hungry, on a Sunday evening when not much around our hostel was open. Our search for food provided an opportunity to explore the neighborhood and that’s when I was taken by a feeling of familiarity, which unexpectedly provided a sense of comfort. Walking the streets of San José felt kinda like home. Im not sure how to explain it other than to say, for the first time in a while, it didn’t feel like I was in a foreign country, it felt like an unfamiliar city in the US.

My pre arrival research listed Costa Rica as the most expensive country in Central America so I really didn’t want to stay long and genuinely hoped I wouldn’t fall in love and want to make it my forever home. San José and I didn’t make a love connection but I had a terrific time on our date which included, among other things: a self guided sightseeing trot around downtown, an info packed guided tour of the famous National Theater, followed by a light bite at the Alma de Cafe, a cruise through the presidential quarter and its street art covered boundary walls, an introduction to brutalist architecture and a taste of Calle 33/Barrio Escalante, San José’s trendy food & drink street/neighborhood.

At first I was disappointed to find so many points of interest closed on Mondays, but it quickly became evident that less was more. Fewer options makes it easier for two people to agree on something. Additionally, i’m grateful for the time I spent outdoors enjoying the architecture, street art and weather. Had I spent the day strolling through museums, I’d likely have missed out on what I enjoyed most about the city.

 

Im compelled to mention the most striking piece of art to catch my eye in the capital city, the Jenaro Valverde Marín Building. Generally it’s churches and colonial architecture that move me to dig out my good camera, but this time it was the Brutalist architecture of Alberto Linner Díaz that held my attention throughout the day. This building continues to light up my imagination with ideas of a concrete dystopian future despite the fact that it was built in 1976. Anything that inspires me to act, to research and find out more, brings me joy and appreciation. Thank you!

 

Cahuita, Costa Rica

Our final Costa Rican stop was Cahuita, a laid back village with an island vibe on the southern Caribbean cost. A tropical paradise with warm water and beautiful black and tan sandy beaches, Cahuita is home to a dazzling sea side jungle and national park. With protected, biodiverse marine and land ecosystems full of indigenous inhabitants, the park has no admission fees and relies exclusively on donations for its maintenance, making it yet another unexpected and budget friendly surprise.

Once in the park, it didn’t take long to spot capuchin and hear howler monkeys. The racoons are not shy at all! I noticed the first one when its wet nose touched my leg and another when I caught it going through my back pack, which I absentmindedly left open, while I took a dip in the Caribbean Sea. Plenty of insects made an appearance as well but my favorites were the spiders and leafcutter ants. Im pretty use to seeing lizards but not skinny green snakes. Finally, with the aid of someone else’s guide, I was able to capture a pic of the illusive, superstar sloth catching some z’s in a tree. 

Mini Memories of Monteverde

Posted on by Schalonda

Monteverde Costa Rica

Santa Elena

It’s challenging to consistently write about my experiences while steadily on the move. I traveled with my big beautiful journal, a collection of colorful pens and a camera for the purpose of documentation. It’s the job of these tools to record thoughts, emotions and observations in a given moment and they do that job exceptionally well, when used as directed. I bring this up now out of pure frustration. It’s been a formidable task remembering Santa Elena, in part because I neglected my tools. My journal entries are scarce, my photos are inadequate and Im sad about it.

Of this I am certain, I was not alone as I explored. What began with me tagging along on a day trip, transformed into a full blown travel duo as we departed Ometepe, Nicaragua. Our first stop after crossing the overland boarder from Nicaragua into Costa Rica, unscathed and without proof of onward travel, was the city of Santa Elena, located in the mountainous region of Monteverde.

I chose to head inland instead of the beaches of the Pacific because, ultimately, I was aiming toward the Caribbean and overland boarder crossing from Sixaloa, Costa Rica into Panama. I chose Monteverde because I thought it was gonna be an exotic place where you could get up close and personal with giraffes. Yes, it’s a little sad but it’s also 100% true.

The place turns out to be @ 4,600 ft above sea level and is renowned as an ecotourism destination since its home to the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve, which also happens to be one of the world’s most visited cloud forests. What do you know, an opportunity to see things from a giraffes point of view. Except, I didn’t actually visit the Monteverde Biological Reserve. I think we picked the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve instead, hoping it would be less crowded, have better visibility and more opportunities to see wildlife.

I’d say traversing the cloud forest suspension bridges by day and traipsing through a private reserve in search of nocturnal critters on a night walk tour was an incredibly exotic adventure, no giraffes needed.

Guided Through Granada

Posted on by Schalonda

Granada, Nicaragua

When I think back on my time in Granada, I have a habit of listing the missed opportunities. Places I didn’t go and things I didn’t see. Belize is still my #1 do-over Country but Granada tops my list of do over cities. Should I ever return, I’ll definitely add more photos to my collection of beautiful churches, rent a bike or walk down to Lake Nicaragua and go on the Las Isletas Boat Tour.

Once done berating myself about the shoulda coulda wouldas, my thoughts move toward what I actually did during my visit. At this point i’m reminded of the energy sucking heat and my choice to spend so much time mapping nearby food options before leaving the shaded comfort and convenience of hostel WiFi. I purposely waited until late afternoon for the free walking tour and the Iglesia de la Merced bell tower climb, which had both, a remarkable view and a glorious breeze. After the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center in Leon, I was excited to visit the Centro Cultural Museos Convento San Francisco for another relaxing museum day. Museums really are the best way to beat the heat or rain and enjoy some art.

 

Truth is, the highlight of my visit to Granada was an adventurous journey via local bus to the nearby cities of Managua and Masaya. Even though each stop was relatively short, the experience stands out because it’s not one I would have had on my own. As luck would have it, I was able to tag alongside a fellow traveler with a local connection in Managua, which, by the way, wasn’t even on my list of places to see in Nicaragua.

 

Turns out, the capital is a bustling city that seemed difficult to navigate if you had several days, let alone a few hours. However, with our gracious guide behind the wheel, it was a pleasant ride to Puerto Salvador Allende where the three of us did our best to polish off a colossal seafood platter, that was apparently intended for two.

With full bellies and the sun still shining, we boarded the bus back to Granada with enough time for a brief stop in Masaya. With no plans, nor any desire on my part, to visit the active Masaya Volcano or Volcano National Park, our stroll through town gave us a glance at the Mercado de las Artesanías and its colonial fortress wall perimeter, a peek inside the 18th-century Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church and a twilight traipse to El Malecón for a view of Laguna de Masaya, priceless!

ometepe

At this part of my trek I was deciding between two places, the beach/yoga town of San Juan del Sur and the volcano/nature island of Ometepe. Still holding on to some bitterness toward volcanos you’d think i’d have chosen San Juan del Sur, but I did not. I opted to visit Ometepe for three reasons:

  1. I’d heard so much about its stunning beauty and nature, I didn’t want to miss this “once-in-a-lifetime” opportunity to see and experience it for myself.
  2. I started getting an impression that San Juan del Sur had more in common with the surfing town of El Tunco than the yogi paradise I was searching for.
  3. I had an opportunity to travel to Ometepe, and perhaps even farther, with someone else. Travel is much less scary when you’re with someone else.

My two days on the island were slightly disappointing. Yes, the island is gorgeous but transportation options are limited so there’s little to see or do when you’re on foot. Also, arriving just before the end of rainy season wasn’t ideal, although I did get some good rainstorm video.

I chose travel as the path to explore my curiosity and courage, both of which played their part in my Ometepe visit. While I didn’t employ the courage required for solo exploration, I still have faith that following my curiosity lead me to the right experience.

Leisurely Learning in León

Posted on by Schalonda

León Nicaragua

I’ll Go And Find Out For Myself

After my time in El Salvador I headed South, passing through Honduras and stopping in León, Nicaragua. I gave some thought to exploring Honduras but found that the places I was interested in were on the Caribbean side and would have been better accessed from Belize or Guatemala.

I have to admit, a part of me was hesitant to visit Nicaragua, after all, It doesn’t have the safest reputation, but then again neither did Mexico City and I spent an unforgettable month there and would return in a heartbeat. Besides, I chose travel as a way the satisfy my curiosity and discover for myself whether or not the world is, in fact, the dangerous place I’ve heard so much about, making Nicaragua the perfect place to explore next.

With the exception of some unwanted attention*, I thoroughly enjoyed my time in León. It started with an investigation of the historical city center on foot, one of my favorite methods of transportation, and ended with a leisurely stroll through the city adding to my photo collection of beautiful old churches.

Other than looking for a place to stay, I did very little research prior to my arrival. Instead, I elected to save time and joined the free walking tour, which provided a great overview of the city, some country history and recommendations from our local guide about things to do and how to get around. I also got a brief synopsis of the political situation, which seems to be the primary source of Nicaraguas “dangerous” reputation, as well as the inspiration for local murals and street art.

I am grateful that there were no political protests or signs of civil unrest while I was having a look around. I had the pleasure of visiting museums, churches, the beach and strolling the streets at night in relative peace.

I spent a spectacular day enjoying the Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center, a true travel highlight and a must see if you’re ever in town. I got to cool off and watch a stunning sunset at nearby Las Peñitas beach and appreciate the second most popular tourist attraction in León, the striking view from the Parque Central rooftop. I had absolutely no desire to go volcano boarding, which I think is the top touristy thing to do.

I am thrilled my curiosity lead me to León and that I didn’t let my doubt prevent this pleasant pursuit.

*A note

I would be remiss if I did not mention my experience receiving unwanted attention during my time in Nicaragua. A month in Mexico City did an excellent job preparing me for the loss of personal space and being stared at, so by the time I reached Nicaragua I thought I was quite accustomed to both. Somehow though, León stands out for managing to significantly raise the bar on creepy lingering stares, whistles, cat calls and comments (in Spanish of course) I would have to endure in this otherwise lovely town.

El Tunco Enlightening

Posted on by Schalonda

El Tunco,
el salvador

Among other things,
travel is meant to teach, right?

I chose to spend time in El Tunco because of it’s proximity to a few other locations I was interested in. Im tempted to call this visit a misstep but I gained some valuable insight during my stay, so i’m guessing it served its true purpose.

I planned to arrive in El Tunco and explore surrounding popular attractions like Santa Ana, San Salvador and Ruta de Las Flores, by booking guided day trips. However, once I arrived, I realize this was not to be. Day trips were incredibly expensive and required a minimum of 2-3 people. I tried to join an existing group, but my attempt was unsuccessful. Great, I booked five nights in a surfers paradise and have no interest in surfing, so now what?

Before I can do anything, I’ll need cash and, as luck would have it, the closest ATM is broken. I get directions to a reliable ATM in nearby La Libertad from a hotel staffer which detail exactly how to get there using local transportation. The thought of taking a chicken bus makes me nervous. It’s outside my comfort zone and therefore something that causes a boost in that familiar mixture of fear and anxiety. Of course my response is to imagine the good-sized nightmarish experience to come. Standing on an old school bus stuffed with animals and sweaty people, because El Tunco is a sweltering furnace, heading to parts unknown because I somehow get on the wrong bus and my terrible Spanish fuels disaster… No need to continue, it always ends in prison or death. Nevertheless, needs must, so I head for the bus stop.

 

Obviously my first chicken bus ride was nothing like I’d imagined. In fact, it was quite pleasant and made me feel genuinely foolish for being scared in the first place.

Since the world didn’t end and I didn’t get lost, I feel a dose of courage and think maybe I can successfully take the one hour bus ride to San Salvador too. At least this way I’d get to visit a place on my list for a fraction of the guided day trip cost.

 

enlightening Strikes

In the end, I did take the bus to San Salvador for a look around and even hopped on another chicken bus for a waterfall hike with people from my hotel. Doing stuff with other people is way easier though, it’s when I’m alone that I tend to make decisions based on how much of that fear & anxiety cocktail bubbles up in my body. Believe it or not, I didn’t even recognize I was doing this until some time after my time in El Tunco. Once clarity dawned, I resolved to be more adventurous once I got to South America.