El Tunco,
el salvador

Among other things,
travel is meant to teach, right?

I chose to spend time in El Tunco because of it’s proximity to a few other locations I was interested in. Im tempted to call this visit a misstep but I gained some valuable insight during my stay, so i’m guessing it served its true purpose.

I planned to arrive in El Tunco and explore surrounding popular attractions like Santa Ana, San Salvador and Ruta de Las Flores, by booking guided day trips. However, once I arrived, I realize this was not to be. Day trips were incredibly expensive and required a minimum of 2-3 people. I tried to join an existing group, but my attempt was unsuccessful. Great, I booked five nights in a surfers paradise and have no interest in surfing, so now what?

Before I can do anything, I’ll need cash and, as luck would have it, the closest ATM is broken. I get directions to a reliable ATM in nearby La Libertad from a hotel staffer which detail exactly how to get there using local transportation. The thought of taking a chicken bus makes me nervous. It’s outside my comfort zone and therefore something that causes a boost in that familiar mixture of fear and anxiety. Of course my response is to imagine the good-sized nightmarish experience to come. Standing on an old school bus stuffed with animals and sweaty people, because El Tunco is a sweltering furnace, heading to parts unknown because I somehow get on the wrong bus and my terrible Spanish fuels disaster… No need to continue, it always ends in prison or death. Nevertheless, needs must, so I head for the bus stop.

 

Obviously my first chicken bus ride was nothing like I’d imagined. In fact, it was quite pleasant and made me feel genuinely foolish for being scared in the first place.

Since the world didn’t end and I didn’t get lost, I feel a dose of courage and think maybe I can successfully take the one hour bus ride to San Salvador too. At least this way I’d get to visit a place on my list for a fraction of the guided day trip cost.

 

enlightening Strikes

In the end, I did take the bus to San Salvador for a look around and even hopped on another chicken bus for a waterfall hike with people from my hotel. Doing stuff with other people is way easier though, it’s when I’m alone that I tend to make decisions based on how much of that fear & anxiety cocktail bubbles up in my body. Believe it or not, I didn’t even recognize I was doing this until some time after my time in El Tunco. Once clarity dawned, I resolved to be more adventurous once I got to South America.

My first few days were spent roaming the woods of San Marcos with my new friend and fellow Sumpango kite festival attendee. Together we hiked to the Yoga Forest for an ashtanga yoga class and kirtan song ceremony. A spectacular view of the lake, volcanos and jungle with the sun setting behind them made a flawless backdrop for my yogi dream.

When my friend headed back to Philly, I spent the next few days roving the lake towns on my own. Grabbing a lancha to Panajachel for a day trip, investigating the short trails of the San Marcos nature reserve, up at 5am for an Indian Nose hike to watch the sunrise, followed by some worthy wandering of San Pedros streets to discover the charming Parque Puerta Hermosa.

Between Flores, Antigua and Lake Atitlán, I spent over five weeks in Guatemala. I felt especially comfortable in Antigua so thoughts of putting it behind me to get back on the road were joined by anxiety and fear. However, if I was to see to South America anytime soon, I would need move on. I can’t stay in Guatemala forever so I booked a shuttle for my next stop, El Tunco, El Salvador.

With Mexico behind me i’d have to figure out how to navigate my way through Central America without the ADO bus. I decided the best place to make my future plans would be Antigua, Guatemala so I headed in that direction.

Approximately one hour and 45 minutes from the Belize/ Guatemala boarder is Tikal, the ruin of an ancient city and famous archaeological site in the Guatemalan rainforest. AKA, the perfect place to stop and visit when traveling the great distance from San Pedro, Belize to Antigua, Guatemala. I thought about spending a few days in San Ignacio, Belize since it’s close to the boarder and offers day trips to Tikal, but decided against it. At the time I felt I had already spent too much money in Belize and Guatemala would be much cheaper. Looking back, I wish I had made a different choice and feel that San Ignacio was a missed opportunity.

 

Flores, Guatemala

Tikal

Flores is a small town on Lake Petén Itzá that’s connected to the mainland suburb of Santa Elena by a short causeway. It’s a convenient spot for tourists wanting to visit Tikal National Park since it’s about an hour shuttle ride away. Revisiting my decision to stay away from hostels, I picked a place with a patio and an awesome view of the lake, perfect for sunset watching.

After visiting Tikal, my list of things to do in Flores was complete. I spent most of my time on the patio with my laptop. I managed to leave my patio perch once or twice to explore a bit. I walked around the island taking pictures, searched for sunglasses at the large market in Santa Elena and went for a boat ride across the lake to explore the town of Tayasal. My visit ended with a motorcycle ride to the bus station (glad my suitcase can convert to a backpack) where I boarded the night bus to Guatemala City, followed by a connecting shuttle to Antigua at 6am the next day.

 

Fun fact: I got ripped off Flores but not as bad as that time I paid a whopping 280 pesos for a 50 peso cab ride in Puerto Escondido, Mexico. I don’t remember what I paid for the bus ticket from Flores to Antigua however, I know the price was supposed to include a shuttle from the ticket office to the Flores bus station, a bus from Flores to Guatemala City and a shuttle from Guatemala City to Antigua. Except, there was no shuttle to the Flores bus station, the guy ended up taking me to the station on his motorcycle, and there was no shuttle to Antigua, I had to buy another ticket for the Antigua shuttle. I actually got lucky here, things could have been much worse if I wasn’t able to board the night bus. 

Moral of the story: sometimes being cheap costs more than you bargained for!

Next Stop

After Mexico, I knew my next country would be Belize. Always planning ahead, I discovered I could catch a water taxi in Chetumal that would get me to San Pedro, Belize in 90 minutes for $50. So, after Bacalar I headed South to Chetumal.

Chetumal, Mexico

I was warned a few times that Chetumal was boring, there was nothing to do or see and I wouldn’t miss out if I skipped it altogether. Awesome! That sounded perfect, so I booked a two week stay. I needed a place to rest and relax for a while. 

I wanted to live like a normal person. Spend the day in my pajamas, read in bed, draw, cook, watch Netflix & HBO, stay put and regroup. I found out later this need to stop moving is referred to as travel fatigue and it’s common.

So…, I know I said I was done with hostels but I found this well- priced spot that looked perfect, with great amenities that had two bunk beds and resembled a hostel. I took a chance on it because, according to Airbnb, all 4 beds were available and I was betting I’d have the room to myself for a bit. I Scored! My gamble totally paid off. For all but 4 days I had a big ass air conditioned room & private bath all to myself. Just when I started mentally preparing to get back on the road, my host messaged to let me know I’d be getting a roommate and that’s how I met my first traveling companion.

San Pedro, Belize


Saying good-bye to Chetumal was tougher then you might think. Having a routine and rest was magical, but now I was headed back to a world of constant moving and decision making, not to mention my first boarder crossing. Not gonna lie, I was full of fear and anxiety, frequent companions when I move towards the unknown.

It so happened that I could not have picked a better destination then San Pedro to get back into the swing of things. The water taxi turned out to be an enjoyable ride. A much better option than the bus and, I suspect, a better view. It was a comfort to be back in an English speaking country, most especially upon entry. Boarder crossings are nerve wracking enough without language barriers added to the mix. A shout out to my travel buddy for offering up some calm & relaxed energy. I guess when you jump out of planes for fun a boarder crossing is no cause for alarm. Sometimes it’s the little things that make the biggest difference. 


Similar to Bacalar, San Pedro is quite the charmer. I spent time enjoying the views from the hotel terrace and ocean front cafes. Wandering the narrow streets and shore walk, even with the all seaweed, was the perfect way to ease back into life on the road. 

After my first day I thought about extending my stay or maybe heading to Caye Calker for a look around but I sobered up after day two. San Pedro has great charm but it’s not nearly as budget friendly as Mexico. I love the food, the people, speaking English, the accents, the water sports and I could even tolerate the October heat, what was harder to ignore was my money fears and I couldn’t shake the feeling or belief that my money would go a lot further somewhere else.

Since I would only be in Belize for a few more days, I did my best to put aside money concerns and enjoy myself. Kinda tough when my travel buddy suggested we tour the Great Blue Hole, from a plane. Yikes!! I can still feel my purse strings tighten shut and that’s without the slightest idea of what it might cost. In the end I ignored my fears and did it anyway. With just a little convincing from my buddy, who was really looking forward to it and actually did research to find a competitive price, I jumped on a plane for 20 minutes of photography bliss.

It so happened that my travel buddy came equipped with an extra GoPro and some generosity, giving me an excellent opportunity to take underwater snaps of my day snorkeling. It’s true, the right people really do show up when you need them the most. I read stories about travelers meeting and traveling together along the way, but I doubted that would happen for me because making friends is not really my specialty. Turns out I was wrong. I now know the awesomeness of traveling with a fellow wanderer and enjoying experiences I wouldn’t have had as a solo artist. This is where I begin to understand the true value hostels. #SanPedroBelize

October 19, 2019
Antigua, Guatemala

Today marks the 4-month anniversary of my departure from the U.S. and the beginning of my travel adventures and transformational journey. Seems fitting to write about how I spent my day, especially since it’s still a fresh wound.

I’ve just come from doing the hardest thing I have ever done. Yesterday we left for the popular 2-day Volcano Acatenango hike. This hike takes you up the 3rd highest peak in Guatemala, an elevation increase of about 1.2 meters/3,900 feet, were you camp at almost 4,000 meters, approximately 13,000 feet, and spend an evening captivated by Volcano Fuego spitting ash & lava all night. Day 2 of this hike has you up and departing camp at 4:30 am for the final 400 meters/quarter mile to summit Acatenango and watch the sunrise over Fuego and the valley below.

 

I did not enjoy this hike. It was so fucking hard, I wanted to quit every step of the way. I did my best to relax, appreciate my surroundings and wipe the pained look off my face but I struggled so hard to move my feet and breath at the same time, it was difficult to remember that hiking is a passion of mine. Until yesterday I believed there was no such thing as a bad hike, now I’m not so sure. Perhaps this hike was meant to teach me something important that I will understand later, when every muscle between my waist and ankles are no longer sore.

I did not summit Acatenago. I was up and moving at 4:30 am with everyone else but I could’t finish. After 15 minutes of battling to breathe, I quit and walked back down to basecamp alone. I watched the sunrise over Fuego feeling like a failure. This hike made me feel inadequate in every way possible. I wasn’t fit enough, I couldn’t carry my own backpack, I couldn’t keep up with my group, I couldn’t even be the person that didn’t care that I was the slowest and to top it off, I was the only quitter, the only one missing from the photo at the top. Right now I do not feel any sense of accomplishment for doing the hike, I feel disappointed by a shitty performance.

 

I want to say that I would never have done the hike had I known what I was in for but those words are useless. I DID hike Acatenago and while i’m still consumed with feelings of not enoughness and inferiority for not reaching the summit, I also had the unbelievable experience of listening to the sounds of a volcano erupting, watching lava and plumes of ash shoot out the top of a mountain, seeing and abundance of stars in the night sky, watching the sunrise at 13,000 feet, doing the hardest hike of my life in perfect weather and enjoying phenomenal views. Maybe in a month or two I’ll be more appreciative about the the way my teacher taught me what I was meant to learn…

8 days in cuba

After deciding to travel the world, I focused on letting go of my old life, not really considering the journey ahead. I made one choice, start from where I already was. Begin in North America and travel through Central and South America before moving to another continent. I chose Mexico City as my starting point because it was closest big international city.

Researching Mexico tours, I stumbled on one that started in Mexico City and ended in Havana, Cuba. That’s when and how I decided I was going to Cuba.

I chose not to buy a tour through Mexico when I discovered a way to travel at my own pace. I wanted a tour for Cuba though. As an American, I wanted a local guide and I didn’t feel comfortable or confident traveling the island on my own, especially with poquito español.

Cuban Adventures

Finding a guided Cuba tour was easier than expected. I went to Facebook and searched Cuba Tours. 

My search results listed a company called Cuban Adventures

which offers an 8-day tour for $625, breakfast included, and a website that detailed everything you’d ever need to know about traveling to Cuba. I found other tours later but all cost well over $1,000 for 7 days or less.

I bought a non-stop, round trip flight from Cancun to Havana on Aeromexico for $155, purchased from BudgetAir.co.uk, and that price included 1 free checked bag.

Next thing you know, I was in Cuba.

The Itinerary

Day 1

Arrive in Havana

Day 2, 3

Viñales

Day 4

Bay of Pigs / Cienfuegos

Day 5, 6

Trinidad

Day 7

Santa Clara / Havana

Day 8

Depart Havana 12:30pm

viÑales


A small town surrounded by mountains and green fields, where I toured a tobacco and coffee farm and bought some hand rolled Cuban cigars. I explored the mountain surroundings from the hop-on-hop-off bus and danced with the locals during a back to school concert and street party.

Bay of Pigs


On our way to Cienfuegos we stopped at the Bay of Pigs and swam in the most crystal clear warm water you can imagine. My group mate, Jessica, shared her goggles so I got to enjoy a spectacular coral and fish underwater show.

Cienfuegos


Probably the most beautiful city we visited on the tour but also the shortest amount of time spent in a city. If I ever return to Cuba, I definitely want to spend a week or two exploring this gem. 

trinidad


For a small town, theres a lot to do and see in Trinidad. Took pictures from a museum roof top. Walked up a cobblestone hill in flip flops to dance in a cave nightclub. Went on an epic jungle hike to enjoy a gorgeous waterfall and went to the beach for a selfie. Was introduced to the awesomeness of Canchánchara – rum, lemon juice, honey & ice.

santa clara


On our way back to Havana we stopped in Santa Clara for a brief walk through the center of town and a visit the Che Guevara Mausoleum, home to Che’s remains and twenty-nine fellow rebels killed in 1967. 

In the 1958 Battle of Santa Clara, the last battle of the Cuban Revolution, Che and company took the city of Santa Clara. As a reminder, the Hotel Santa Clara Libre still looks to have the bullet holes.

havana


My final evening in Havana was spent enjoying a good-bye dinner with my tour mates, exploring the city at night and having a last beer on the awesome rooftop terrace.

My final day in Havana was a short one. After a little exploring, I was back on the rooftop taking selfies and pictures of the city skyline from four stories up. Trying hard not to think about returning to Mexico where lodging, breakfast, transportation, a daily itinerary and dinner were no longer someone else’s concern. 

My time in Cuba was amazing, even the heartbreaking parts. Without a doubt, I would like to explore again someday.

A Few Missed trips

I’ve visited some big cities with lots of stuff to photograph and write about but there have also been some short trips along the way that I haven’t mentioned yet. 

Chiapas Mexico

Leaving San Cristobal de las casas

I took the opportunity to use an organized day trip as both, my transportation to the city of Palenque and a way to visit Agua Azul, Misol-Ha and the Palenque Mayan ruins. The only downside to this adventure, leaving San Cristobal at 4am. 

This is a popular day trip from San Cristobal but for me, the early start and cramped bus would have made a tedious day had I made the round trip. 

Since I chose to spend a few days in Palenque, stopping to visit a few popular attractions was a great alternative to a 9 hour ADO bus ride. 

Misol ha

palenque 

ruins  

agua azul

The Yucatan

Appreciating Places Near Mérida

Before my Chichén Itzá day trip, I enjoyed a boat ride through a Mangrove Forest to swim in a cenote, a visit to Celestún to see flamingos and a stop  in Progreso for lunch and free time on the beach.

Not a bad trip if you’re with friends but I might get board if I did this one on my own. As it happened, I was glad to join a few other solo travelers for a full day of exploring.

mangrove

flamingos 

grasshopper 

progreso

 

A 5 Day Stay In Valladolid

Midway between Mérida and Cancun, Valladolid was 5 days of work, mosquito bites and leisurely exploration. I found plenty to see without a day trip, including an evening video mapping show projected on the former convent of San Bernardino of Siena and a cenote near the city center.

quintana roo

Waiting for a flight in cancun

I went to Cancun to use the international airport, not to explore. It’s a party destination for tourists, not a real hot spot for the solo traveler.

While waiting for my departure date, I noticed my hostel had a book with a dozen day trip options and I couldn’t resist picking one.

My choice, a trip to the tropical island of Cozumel for a day of snorkeling.

I never snorkeled before and thought a day spent learning how was an excellent way to have fun without sweating my life away in Cancuns unbearable heat. 

It’s probably no surprise that my  choice was on point. Crystal clear warm water, tropical fish, sea turtles, sting rays, star fish, a costal boat ride w/beer and snacks, lunch and free time included. 

Sorry, no snorkeling or underwater picts.

Magic Moments

Maybe it was the best hostel shower ever, that special brownie, discovering falafel, could have been all the hummingbirds, or even the return of the peacock. I can’t quite put my finger on it but, I agree, San Cristobal is the most magical of pueblos mágicos.

 

It started with food. After a very long 14 hour bus ride from Oaxaca, I landed in San Cristobal hangry and tired. I dropped my bags at the hostel and went directly to the closest eatery on the map they provided. Chips & salsa, 4 barbacoa tacos and two beers for $77 pesos. You can’t beat that. 

 

Next, was my decision to do something I wanted to do in Mexico City and Oaxaca but didn’t, the free walking tour. Best decision ever! Our tour guide, Carlos, was very passionate about his city, pointing out all the best food, drink, shopping and street art spots. While this wasn’t a food tour, it could have been. We stopped often to taste local delights like coffee, chapulines (grasshoppers), pox (pronounced posh), camboucha, beer and a few other things I can’t recall. During one stop, I got schooled on what peyote should look like, how to have an authentic ayahuasca experience and an opportunity to acquire a very special brownie 😜. Magic!

 

Discovering falafel was yet another magical experience. Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca had been hit & miss finding good food at reasonable prices. San Cristobal started off great but I followed up those yummy tacos with pricey but average enchiladas. Now it’s Monday, a lot of places are closed and i’m starving. After wandering, I settle on 1 of @3 open places at the end of my patience. A newbie to falafel, I took forever to order, sat down and pouted because I knew it would suck. I took a bite and almost cried. It was so good I bought one to go and ate it the next day. Still wonderful!

 

I spent my final day in San Cristobal exploring the Amber, Jade and Na Bolom Museums and meandering through the maze of side-by-side tents that make up the main shopping area. A magical day of playing photographer, looking at art and shopping for that perfect piece of amber that continues to elude me. I would go back to San Cristobal in a heartbeat. It’s the perfect home base for exploring the state of Chiapas.

 

Life
on
the
move:
A New Normal

Getting Uncomfortable

I began this adventure with a month in Mexico City but that’s not really traveling, is it? Staying in one spot is easy and a month is plenty of time to get comfortable. Now I start moving, actually traveling and part of me would rather stay comfortable in this familiar place instead of moving toward the unknown.


an
oppor

tunity
to feel
dis
comfort every
day…
price
less

 

Puerto escondido

8:30 am, Thursday, July 18, 2019
I took an Uber to Mexico City International Airport and boarded a flight to Puerto Escondido. This was the departure city for a tour I missed because I waited too long to book it. I decided to go there anyway, relax on a warm beach for a few days and follow the tour route on my own.

7 am, Thursday, July 18, 2019
I arrive in Puerto Escondido and grossly overpay for a taxi that drops me at my very first hostel by 11:30. Too early for check-in, I shed my suitcase, grab a map from reception then i’m off to check out the neighborhood. Wearing a backpack filled with all my electronic devices, a comfy skort and hiking shoes w/ socks, I head for the closest beach. After descending thousands of steps, I found myself at a packed beach with no place to take off my shoes. In less than 5 minutes, waves rush up and soak my feet. No worries though, it actually feels good having the water cool me off a bit.

Shortly after I find a spot to remove my shoes and enjoy sand between my toes, a wave comes and snatches a shoe while my back is turned. I spot it floating. Mouth wide, I watch for a minute or two before shoving my backpack in the bushes and jumping in after it. I manage to get it back but cut my foot real good in the process. I don’t care that i’m soaked. Puerto Escondido was so hot, I figure i’ll be dry by the time I make it back to hostel. The bloody foot scares me though…

I was pissy about the overwhelming heat, my foot wound and that overpriced cab ride for my first 2 days in PE. On day 3, I decide to let it go and enjoy. I have an awesome bike ride, a great day at the beach, tasty fish tacos and happy hour at the hostel.

My final day, I do my very best to avoid sweating, so I work on my blog until it’s time to catch my bus to Oaxaca.

oaxaca

7 am, Monday, July 22, 2019
The 9 hour ADO bus ride sucks. Even though the seats recline, the bus is cold, winding roads toss you around ALL night and it’s impossible to get comfortable. That being said, you can’t beat the price.

I drop my bag at the hostel after an affordable ten minute cab ride and look for a coffee shop with Wifi thats open at 7:3o am. I get lucky and find one around the block.

7:30 am, Monday, July 22, 2019
I have to say, Oaxaca is beautiful when she sleeps. The empty streets would have made for gorgeous photos but I don’t feel like snapping picts. I decide to appreciate everything I see and keep it as a memory. I consider waking up early for a photo shoot but it never happens.
At the coffee shop I make plans to visit the Monte Albán archaeological site.

With the weather finally on my side, I enjoy perfect temperatures while hiking the archaeological ruins. Patches of clear blue sky and fluffy white clouds make the perfect backdrop for picts of the ancient pyramids.

The hours spent wondering the Archaeological site and exploring the neighborhood take a toll on my wounded foot. Day 2 is a rest, write, research and plan day. Back on both feet, I spend a lot of day 3 at the Culture Museum and catch the Temple of Santo Domingo and the Ethnobotanical Garden as well.

Day 4 is a jam packed day trip with six stops.

  1. Mitla archaeological site
  2. Hierve el Agua petrified waterfalls
  3. Buffet lunch
  4. Mezcal making & tasting at El Rey de Matatlan
  5. Traditional weaving presentation in Teotitlan
  6. Tule, home of 2,000 yr old widest tree ing the world

I spend My final day snapping picts and hunting art galleries before i’m back on the ADO for the 18 hour ride to San Cristobal.

 

My Last Few stops

I spent most of my final week in Mexico City preparing to head south. However, I did make time to visit Coyoacán, Museo Soumaya and Biblioteca Vasconcelos and was not disappointed.

Coyoacán


Coyoacán is home to Museo Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s house turned museum. I was more interested in the neighborhood than the museum but hung around to snap some pictures of the famous blue house and the long line. Not ready to go home, I continued roaming the neighborhood & main plaza. Known for its authentic cuisine, markets and mezcal, the church of San Juan Bautista and the Watercolor Museum are also worth checking out.

It’s rainy season in Mexico City from May/Jun – Oct/Nov, so I wasn’t surprised when it started raining. After an hour or two of doodling at a coffee shop, I headed for what turned out to be a dazzling discovery. Viveros de Coyoacán is a combination tree nursery and public park. It’s also the closest i’ve come to hiking in the rain since I left California. Misty air, tall trees, and the smell of wet earth was the perfect way to end my visit.

 

Museo Soumaya


My next outing brought me to the Museo Soumaya. Made up of two buildings, Plaza Carso and Plaza Loreto, this place requires all day. The line for Plaza Loreto reminded me of Magic Mountain so I chose Plaza Carso, the pretty building with the short line.

Apparently, Plaza Loreto is 6 levels with the top level housing the largest Rodin exhibit outside of France. I did not know this and spent all my time on level 2, captivated by the “Asia in Ivory” exhibit. I did, however, manage to catch “The Thinker” and “The Gates of Hell” in the lobby.

 

Biblioteca Vasconcelos


Similar to Museo Soumaya, my final adventure in Mexico City was an architectural delight. Biblioteca Vasconcelos is a MUST if you’re into amazingly beautiful things or buildings. This unique library has thousands of books suspended from the ceiling and smoked glass floors allowing you to see feet walking above you. Theres also  garden out back and window seats on the top floors offering unique city views. Another glorious way to spend my day.