Category: Uncategorized

A Fresh Wound

Posted on by Schalonda

October 19, 2019
Antigua, Guatemala

Today marks the 4-month anniversary of my departure from the U.S. and the beginning of my travel adventures and transformational journey. Seems fitting to write about how I spent my day, especially since it’s still a fresh wound.

I’ve just come from doing the hardest thing I have ever done. Yesterday we left for the popular 2-day Volcano Acatenango hike. This hike takes you up the 3rd highest peak in Guatemala, an elevation increase of about 1.2 meters/3,900 feet, were you camp at almost 4,000 meters, approximately 13,000 feet, and spend an evening captivated by Volcano Fuego spitting ash & lava all night. Day 2 of this hike has you up and departing camp at 4:30 am for the final 400 meters/quarter mile to summit Acatenango and watch the sunrise over Fuego and the valley below.

 

I did not enjoy this hike. It was so fucking hard, I wanted to quit every step of the way. I did my best to relax, appreciate my surroundings and wipe the pained look off my face but I struggled so hard to move my feet and breath at the same time, it was difficult to remember that hiking is a passion of mine. Until yesterday I believed there was no such thing as a bad hike, now I’m not so sure. Perhaps this hike was meant to teach me something important that I will understand later, when every muscle between my waist and ankles are no longer sore.

I did not summit Acatenago. I was up and moving at 4:30 am with everyone else but I could’t finish. After 15 minutes of battling to breathe, I quit and walked back down to basecamp alone. I watched the sunrise over Fuego feeling like a failure. This hike made me feel inadequate in every way possible. I wasn’t fit enough, I couldn’t carry my own backpack, I couldn’t keep up with my group, I couldn’t even be the person that didn’t care that I was the slowest and to top it off, I was the only quitter, the only one missing from the photo at the top. Right now I do not feel any sense of accomplishment for doing the hike, I feel disappointed by a shitty performance.

 

I want to say that I would never have done the hike had I known what I was in for but those words are useless. I DID hike Acatenago and while i’m still consumed with feelings of not enoughness and inferiority for not reaching the summit, I also had the unbelievable experience of listening to the sounds of a volcano erupting, watching lava and plumes of ash shoot out the top of a mountain, seeing and abundance of stars in the night sky, watching the sunrise at 13,000 feet, doing the hardest hike of my life in perfect weather and enjoying phenomenal views. Maybe in a month or two I’ll be more appreciative about the the way my teacher taught me what I was meant to learn…

Tears in Tulum

Posted on by Schalonda

Clearing Clutter for Clarity

Today is October 5, 2019 and I’m sitting on the lakefront deck at a hotel in Flores, Guatemala. It’s been exactly 1 month since my flight from Havana landed at Cancun International Airport and I made my way to Tulum. I didn’t want to be in Tulum, I wanted to be home, in my bed surrounded by all my stuff but that wasn’t possible. My home and stuff were long gone, so I’d have to settle for a cheap hostel instead.

Landing

In Cuba, I barely lifted a finger. Everything was taken care of and it felt like a much needed vacation. Tulum meant an end to all comfort and the beginning of a long hard road ahead with no relief in sight. I was exhausted the minute my plane landed in Cancun.

day 1

I woke up, climbed down from the top bunk, showered and got food. After breakfast, while I sat in the lobby/common area, I felt them coming. After years of holding back my tears, believing they were useless and didn’t help or solve anything, they did what I trained them to do, they sat unmoving in my throat. Little by little, I coaxed them out with the truth of my situation. I was tired of moving from place to place. Tired of loneliness and decision making. Tired of stinking, sweating, ever shrinking personal space, mosquito bites & useless repellent, hostels, clogged showers and the fucking top bunk. I missed the simpIe comforts of home but I didn’t want to go back to the States. My Hostel was gross and I couldn’t bear to think of a future with more of the same. I let my tears know it was safe to come out, no matter how many people were around to whiteness and finally they came, one by one but not nearly enough.

Making Space

Turns out, tears DO help. They are not useless. They helped me let go of built up frustration, stress and travel fatigue, which felt good. Tired, worn out and not sleeping well, my desire to explore was gone. If my bed had been comfortable I might have stayed in it. Instead, my tears cleared space for an idea that felt perfect. Solutions to all my problems would be found after a good massage.

Exploring Cost

Tears came two or three more times before my massage, including crying myself to sleep and a near meltdown when I got lost looking for the massage spot. After Carlos worked his magic, things began to look and feel better. I enjoyed a full day exploring Tulum by bike and realized that cheap hostels were costing me too much. Energy is required to continue safely on this journey and I need to stay in places that recharge instead of drain me.

Fear of Spending

Here I am again, confronted with one of the most resilient skeletons in my closet. My limiting beliefs about and damaged relationship with money. I believe that money equals safety and the more money I spend, the less safe I am. Vibrating just beneath my surface at all times, my spending alarm BLASTED (see iPhone, old car horn) when I withdrew a large sum of cash for my Cuban Adventure. This action felt scary and unsafe but I knew it was just the beginning of something much bigger and my decision to stop using cheap accommodations was a confirmation there was work ahead.

Attainable Healing

I knew long before it began that this journey would change me and that thought excited me. Now, in the midst of changing, the excitement has dulled with the routine of daily practice. I’ve spent a great deal of time working on my beliefs about myself & money since Tulum and I think my effort it’s paying off, pun intended 😁. This post comes after 5-days of “no alarm” spending in Belize, considered the #2 most expensive country in Central America, with Costa Rica coming in at #1. My spending fears and money beliefs are tied other belief baggage I have about being unworthy and not enough, so there’s much more work to be done, but I’m feeling optimism, like healing is actually attainable. It’s not the first time I’ve tried fixing my relationship with money but this feeling is new, something I was missing both times I read Your Are A Badass At Making Money with my family. 

Resources for You

These books have made a MAJOR contribution to my life and feelings of optimism in the last two months. 

*The Illusion of Money: Why Chasing Money is Stopping You From Receiving It by Kyle Cease
• E-book, LA Public Library

Happy Money: The Japanese Art of Making Peace with Your Money by Ken Honda
• Audio Book, also available as an E-book from LA Public Library

Seth Speaks: The Eternal Validity of The Soul by Jane Roberts
• Audio Book, also available on YouTube

It’s Not Your Money: How to Live Fully From Divine Abundance by Tosha Silver
• E-book, LA Public Library

Outrageous Openness: Letting the Divine Take the Lead by Tosha Silver
• E-book, LA Public Library

A Cuban Adventure

Posted on by Schalonda

8 days in cuba

After deciding to travel the world, I focused on letting go of my old life, not really considering the journey ahead. I made one choice, start from where I already was. Begin in North America and travel through Central and South America before moving to another continent. I chose Mexico City as my starting point because it was closest big international city.

Researching Mexico tours, I stumbled on one that started in Mexico City and ended in Havana, Cuba. That’s when and how I decided I was going to Cuba.

I chose not to buy a tour through Mexico when I discovered a way to travel at my own pace. I wanted a tour for Cuba though. As an American, I wanted a local guide and I didn’t feel comfortable or confident traveling the island on my own, especially with poquito español.

Cuban Adventures

Finding a guided Cuba tour was easier than expected. I went to Facebook and searched Cuba Tours. 

My search results listed a company called Cuban Adventures

which offers an 8-day tour for $625, breakfast included, and a website that detailed everything you’d ever need to know about traveling to Cuba. I found other tours later but all cost well over $1,000 for 7 days or less.

I bought a non-stop, round trip flight from Cancun to Havana on Aeromexico for $155, purchased from BudgetAir.co.uk, and that price included 1 free checked bag.

Next thing you know, I was in Cuba.

The Itinerary

Day 1

Arrive in Havana

Day 2, 3

Viñales

Day 4

Bay of Pigs / Cienfuegos

Day 5, 6

Trinidad

Day 7

Santa Clara / Havana

Day 8

Depart Havana 12:30pm

viÑales

A small town surrounded by mountains and green fields, where I toured a tobacco and coffee farm and bought some hand rolled Cuban cigars. I explored the mountain surroundings from the hop-on-hop-off bus and danced with the locals during a back to school concert and street party.

Breakfast

Random Casa

Old-timey Coffee Grinder

Tobacco Leaves

Bay of Pigs

On our way to Cienfuegos we stopped at the Bay of Pigs and swam in the most crystal clear warm water you can imagine. My group mate, Jessica, shared her goggles so I got to enjoy a spectacular coral and fish underwater show.

Cienfuegos

Probably the most beautiful city we visited on the tour but also the shortest amount of time spent in a city. If I ever return to Cuba, I definitely want to spend a week or two exploring this gem. 

trinidad

For a small town, theres a lot to do and see in Trinidad. Took pictures from a museum roof top. Walked up a cobblestone hill in flip flops to dance in a cave nightclub. Went on an epic jungle hike to enjoy a gorgeous waterfall and went to the beach for a selfie. Was introduced to the awesomeness of Canchánchara – rum, lemon juice, honey & ice.

At a cave nightclub and the beach

Canchánchara

Waterfall

Town Center

santa clara

On our way back to Havana we stopped in Santa Clara for a brief walk through the center of town and a visit the Che Guevara Mausoleum, home to Che’s remains and twenty-nine fellow rebels killed in 1967. 

In the 1958 Battle of Santa Clara, the last battle of the Cuban Revolution, Che and company took the city of Santa Clara. As a reminder, the Hotel Santa Clara Libre still looks to have the bullet holes.

havana

My final evening in Havana was spent enjoying a good-bye dinner with my tour mates, exploring the city at night and having a last beer on the awesome rooftop terrace.

My final day in Havana was a short one. After a little exploring, I was back on the rooftop taking selfies and pictures of the city skyline from four stories up. Trying hard not to think about returning to Mexico where lodging, breakfast, transportation, a daily itinerary and dinner were no longer someone else’s concern. 

My time in Cuba was amazing, even the heartbreaking parts. Without a doubt, I would like to explore again someday.

Day Tripping: Stops I Didn’t Mention

Posted on by Schalonda

A Few Missed trips

I’ve visited some big cities with lots of stuff to photograph and write about but there have also been some short trips along the way that I haven’t mentioned yet. 

Chiapas Mexico

Leaving San Cristobal de las casas

I took the opportunity to use an organized day trip as both, my transportation to the city of Palenque and a way to visit Agua Azul, Misol-Ha and the Palenque Mayan ruins. The only downside to this adventure, leaving San Cristobal at 4am. 

This is a popular day trip from San Cristobal but for me, the early start and cramped bus would have made a tedious day had I made the round trip. 

Since I chose to spend a few days in Palenque, stopping to visit a few popular attractions was a great alternative to a 9 hour ADO bus ride. 

Misol ha

palenque 

ruins  

agua azul

The Yucatan

Appreciating Places Near Mérida

Before my Chichén Itzá day trip, I enjoyed a boat ride through a Mangrove Forest to swim in a cenote, a visit to Celestún to see flamingos and a stop  in Progreso for lunch and free time on the beach.

Not a bad trip if you’re with friends but I might get board if I did this one on my own. As it happened, I was glad to join a few other solo travelers for a full day of exploring.

mangrove

flamingos 

grasshopper 

progreso

 

A 5 Day Stay In Valladolid

Midway between Mérida and Cancun, Valladolid was 5 days of work, mosquito bites and leisurely exploration. I found plenty to see without a day trip, including an evening video mapping show projected on the former convent of San Bernardino of Siena and a cenote near the city center.

Zaci Cenote

Zaci Cenote Entrance

Giant Grasshopper

Iguana

quintana roo

Waiting for a flight in cancun

I went to Cancun to use the international airport, not to explore. It’s a party destination for tourists, not a real hot spot for the solo traveler.

While waiting for my departure date, I noticed my hostel had a book with a dozen day trip options and I couldn’t resist picking one.

My choice, a trip to the tropical island of Cozumel for a day of snorkeling.

I never snorkeled before and thought a day spent learning how was an excellent way to have fun without sweating my life away in Cancuns unbearable heat. 

It’s probably no surprise that my  choice was on point. Crystal clear warm water, tropical fish, sea turtles, sting rays, star fish, a costal boat ride w/beer and snacks, lunch and free time included. 

Sorry, no snorkeling or underwater picts.

Appreciating Merida

Posted on by Schalonda

Lesson Learned

Among other things,
long term travel is meant to teach, right?

I can’t help but believe that I’m meant to learn on this journey, all be it At A Puttering Pace, knowledge is the expected outcome. The city of Mérida has done an excellent job teaching me a little something about appreciation.

I spent 15 days in Mérida and complained for 13 of them. Now that I’m gone, I miss her. Scrolling through my photos and reflecting on my visit, I consider how much better things could have been if I’d have appreciated more instead of complaining about what was missing. Now,
I’ll attempt to pay tribute to an exceptional teacher.

Walking History 

Having had good luck with the free walking tour in San Cristobal, I chose to begin things on in Mérida the same way. While there were no brownies or tasty samples, the tour did a great job detailing Yucatan’s past, which shapes the Mérida we see today.

 

In the late 18oo’s and early 1900’s, Mérida was full of millionaires due to Yucatan’s prosperous henequén. Derived from the native Agave, henequén, used to make rope and twine, resulted in substantial wealth for the state. Since the rich needed a place to live, they built elaborate colonial homes in Mérida, many of which still line the streets in various states of disrepair and renovation. Most notable and my personal favorite, is Paseo de Montejo street. Here you can see both, the restored mansion turned museum, bank or insurance company sitting next door to abandoned, decaying reminders of past glory.

 

 

Chichén Itzá

A World Wonder

As with much of Southern Mexico, Mérida grew from the once thriving Mayan city of T’ho. You can brush up on Mayan history and culture at the Mayan World Museum of Mérida and/or witness the ancient ruins up close with a day trip to Chichén Itzá, one of the seven wonders of the world.

A guided day trip to Chichén Itzá includes lunch and a refreshing dip in a stunning cenote or sink hole, the aftermath of collapsed limestone bedrock that exposes the groundwater underneath. According to Wikipedia, there are over 6,000 different cenotes in the Yucatán Peninsula alone.

 

Carved Mayan stones from ancient T’ho were used to build much of the Spanish colonial version of the Mérida you see today. A bitter sweet reminder of Spain’s conquest, indigenous enslavement, pyramid demolition and recycling of the limestone rubble to rebuild the city in the Spanish image. Somber yet captivating, I am grateful for her lessons.

The Most Magical of the Pueblos Mágicos

Posted on by Schalonda

Magic Moments

Maybe it was the best hostel shower ever, that special brownie, discovering falafel, could have been all the hummingbirds, or even the return of the peacock. I can’t quite put my finger on it but, I agree, San Cristobal is the most magical of pueblos mágicos.

 

It started with food. After a very long 14 hour bus ride from Oaxaca, I landed in San Cristobal hangry and tired. I dropped my bags at the hostel and went directly to the closest eatery on the map they provided. Chips & salsa, 4 barbacoa tacos and two beers for $77 pesos. You can’t beat that. 

 

Next, was my decision to do something I wanted to do in Mexico City and Oaxaca but didn’t, the free walking tour. Best decision ever! Our tour guide, Carlos, was very passionate about his city, pointing out all the best food, drink, shopping and street art spots. While this wasn’t a food tour, it could have been. We stopped often to taste local delights like coffee, chapulines (grasshoppers), pox (pronounced posh), camboucha, beer and a few other things I can’t recall. During one stop, I got schooled on what peyote should look like, how to have an authentic ayahuasca experience and an opportunity to acquire a very special brownie 😜. Magic!

 

Discovering falafel was yet another magical experience. Puerto Escondido and Oaxaca had been hit & miss finding good food at reasonable prices. San Cristobal started off great but I followed up those yummy tacos with pricey but average enchiladas. Now it’s Monday, a lot of places are closed and i’m starving. After wandering, I settle on 1 of @3 open places at the end of my patience. A newbie to falafel, I took forever to order, sat down and pouted because I knew it would suck. I took a bite and almost cried. It was so good I bought one to go and ate it the next day. Still wonderful!

 

I spent my final day in San Cristobal exploring the Amber, Jade and Na Bolom Museums and meandering through the maze of side-by-side tents that make up the main shopping area. A magical day of playing photographer, looking at art and shopping for that perfect piece of amber that continues to elude me. I would go back to San Cristobal in a heartbeat. It’s the perfect home base for exploring the state of Chiapas.

Jade Museum

Hostel Hustling

Posted on by Schalonda

Sleeping Around

I never considered staying in a hostel before embarking on my world tour. I always looked for all-inclusive resorts or cheap hotels/motels and never gave it a second thought. When I decided to adventure, I knew my accommodation habits would have to change in service of the greater good, aka my wallet. Yes, change could potentially result in great suffering but that’s the definition of adventure, right? So, I started my new adventure the old fashioned way, simple trial and error. 

La Escondida

Puerto Escondido

I found my very first hostel on booking.com and made my choice based on these 4 factors:

  1. Total Price – $495 mdx (@ $26 usd) for 3 nights
  2. Location – Close to beaches
  3. Picts/Reviews – Pict of bunks w/ privacy curtain
  4. Amenities – Free Breakfast

Living Conditions

  • 8-bed mixed dorm
  • Separate Bathroom – 2 showers & 2 toilets
  • Fully equipped kitchen

My Experience

I did a decent job with my first selection.

Staff was friendly and helpful. I ate a delicious hot breakfast each day. Never waited for the shower or toilet. The free bike was awesome. I had a dedicated place to charge my devices. I found semi-comfortable spots to get work done. I could buy beer and put it in the fridge or buy a cold one at the bar conveniently located upstairs.

On the flip side, that privacy curtain was a mistake. Without air conditioning the room was miserable at night and it felt impossible to breathe with that curtain closed. Having the water randomly turn off everyday also sucked.

Selina

Oaxaca

I also found my second hostel on booking.com and made my choice based on these 4 factors:

  1. Total Price – $625 mdx (@ $33 usd) for 4 nights
  2. Location – Near zocalo and bus station
  3. Air Conditioning – Yes
  4. Amenities – 

    Restaurant/Bar for easy access to food & beer

Living Conditions

  • 16-bed mixed dorm
  • Attached Bathroom – 1 shower & 1 toilet
  • No kitchen

My Experience

I learned a lot here.

Device friendly patio with nice atmosphere. Great place to get work done. Ideal location for exploring the city and finding food. Big lockers for stuff storage.

On the flip side, the room sucked. A 16-bed dorm with a single bathroom might work if the shower and toilet are separated into stalls but otherwise it sucks for everyone. Blasting the AC was unnecessary since Oaxaca isn’t that hot, especially at night. The bar was too loud and crowded for me.

Posada del Abuelito

San Cristobal

I found my third and most favorite hostel on hostelworld.com and made my choice based on these 4 factors:

  1. Total Price – $602 mdx (@ $32 usd) for 4 nights
  2. Dorm Size – New rule, must be 8-beds or less
  3. Location – Near zocalo and bus station
  4. Picts/Reviews –  Relaxed, not a party place 

Living Conditions

  • 4-bed female dorm
  • Attached Bathroom – 1 shower & 1 toilet
  • Fully equipped kitchen

My Experience

Heaven! Seriously, this place rocked.

Friendly staff. Free bath towel. THE BEST shower ever! Excellent water pressure & temp control. Stuff storage. Hot breakfast. Garden common area with hummingbirds! There’s no bar but you can buy beer on site. Great location. What more can you ask for?

My single inconvenience was not having an outlet on the top bunk.

 

Ok. I think i’ve got the hang of this now.
3-5 nights for $650 mdx or less. Centrally located. No dorms larger than 8-beds. 2 or more showers & toilets for separate bathrooms. Fully equipped kitchens for fridge access. Consider amenities, reviews and pictures. Hope for the best.

Week 3 Navigating Mexico City

Posted on by Schalonda

Art In CDMX

Getting to Know the city. 

Exploring inside

THE SIGHTS

My third week in Mexico City was the busiest. Museums, the Zoo, a Zocalo food tour and a trip to the UNAM Central Library.

Museums

You can’t come to Mexico City and skip the Museums, you’re not allowed! There are so many in the city, no matter where you stay, there’s at least one conveniently close.

Modern Art

I forget where I was going but I remember hearing thunder rumbling, so I changed plans and headed to The Museum of Modern Art. Turned out to be an excellent decision. I spent my time enjoying great art instead of getting drenched in a downpour. By the time I got to the outdoor sculpture garden, the heavy rain had turned to a light sprinkle.

Anthropology

The National Museum of Anthropology is a beast! It’s ginormous and packed with exhibits and artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage. Mayan, Aztec, Toltec, Teotihuacan and more. 

What set this museum apart from Chapultepec Castle or the MOMA is simple, English.
Every exhibit has an intro/description in both English and Spanish. Being able to add context to what you’re seeing makes all the difference in the world.

This is a must see if love museums. Set aside a minimum of 4 hours if you want to see everything.

Modern Art

 

Anthropology

 

Food in CDMX

Getting a feel for flavor.

Exploring  outside  

The Zoo

The Chapultepec Zoo is free but the bathrooms cost $5 pesos. I paid $60 pesos to see the insect house & butterfly exhibit.

If you’re exploring the park, check out the free zoo. If you miss it, you’ll be fine.

Metro Universidad

I love the chaotic maze and stuffy heat that is the Mexico City subway, it’s priceless! You just can’t beat the speed, reliability or cost of $5 pesos a ride, which includes all your transfers. It was the long subway ride that got me excited to visit The Central Library at UNAM (National Autonomous University of Mexico). I was so let down when I arrived and the library was closed, most campus entrances & exits too.

Tasty Bites

The most worth while and enlightening experience of my visit to date, has been taking the Tasty Bites food tour.

 

Yes, it was fun sipping on pulque and admiring street art in the historic Zocalo district, but the best part was chatting with our guide and the Australian and German travelers I met on the tour.

Photo Extras

While I was in the Zocalo neighborhood, I snapped a few pics of the Metropolitan Cathedral, Palacio de Bellas Artes and some street art on the famed Calle Regina.

Pulqueria

pulque 

giraffe  

wolf pups 

Churro

Ceviche Tostada

University

Mezcal

Zocalo